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From: <Gilldiver@ao*.co*>
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 17:25:05 EDT
Subject: Re: ScubaPro Faber Tanks-Paint Bubbles and Rust
To: techdiver@aquanaut.com
After reading some of the posts on tank corrosion I thought it was time for
a little science on coating and corrosion.

This is probably more then you ever wanted to know about paints.

First, Powder Coating: Powder coating is the process of applying a powder
paint like material to an electrically conductive surface. The powder is
then heated so that it can melt and polymerize into a uniform coating that
can be very corrosion resistant because of barrier protection of the
underlying metal. That means that water cannot get to the metal. However,
if a scratch breaks through the coating and there is no sacrificial element
under it (like zinc galvanizing) corrosion will start immediately and can
travel under the coating.

For tanks there are two problems with powder coating, the first is the
requirement for electric conductivity. Powder coats are applied by a static
electric charge and many primers are not conductive. Therefor, primers are
generally not used. This results in the application of powder directly onto
the tank surface without any primer. On bare steal this is not a problem but
on zinc you will have a hard time getting really good adhesion due to the
oxide layer that forms on the galvanized surface almost instantaneously when
it is exposed to air. If there is any remaining paint for the old coat you
will have spotting of the new coating.

The second problem is from heating to melt the powder and cure it. On steel
tanks there is no problem on aluminum their is a BIG problem. Aluminum
alloys are just that ALLOYS. They contain other metals like iron, copper,
zinc, magnesium, and manganese. Whenever these alloys are exposed above 275F
you will start to get eutectic melting. This is melting of these alloying
metals within the crystal structure of the aluminum. Metals like copper and
zinc will move along the crystal structure and pool on a microscopic level.
In stressed parts like tanks this pooling forms weak spots were cracks can
start easily. Above 250F you will also start to change the crystal structure
of the aluminum which in itself can form stresses and cracking. As powder
coating typically is done above 300F, powder coating should never be done on
an aluminum tank. If an aluminum tank is exposed to temperatures above 250F
it should be scrapped.

So powder coating will work somewhat on steel tanks but never on aluminum.
So what can you do?

Try looking around the local airport for a small scale aircraft paint
facility that will do small jobs. Have them completely strip the tanks with
a chemical stripper or Plastic Media Blast (PMB) system. Never use sand
blasting on aluminum or galvanized tanks. Have them apply an aircraft grade 
chromated primer and then either you or them apply a high quality aircraft 
urethane topcoat. Never use an epoxy topcoat as it will react with the suns 
UV rays and start breaking down. The chromated chemicals in the primer will 
act as a sacrificial element protecting the underlying metal and if a scratch 
breaks through it will protect the bare metal in the scratch for a long time. 
These primers will protect aluminum and steel in salt spray chambers for at 
least 2000 hours. That would be about 5 years on a boat.

The primers to look for are compliant with US Federal specification
TT-P-1757 (Zinc Chromate) or Mil-P-23377 solvent base epoxy or Mil-P-85582
water base epoxy. Both of the Mil primers contain either Strontium Chromate
or Barium Chromate. For top coat I recommend a material meeting Mil-P-85285.
This system of chromated primer and high quality urethane top coat will give
very good protection and is quite resistant to impact damage (think about a
jet fighter at mach 2 in a rain storm).


So get a good clean surface, prime it, and topcoat it.

Pete Johnson
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