Now I'm a moron ?
Your a real class act, Bruic.
You need to go back to scamming college girls into your porn "calendar".
Yep, a real class guy.

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>
To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne*
<paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; cavers@cavers.com
<cavers@cavers.com>
Date: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord


>Yea, that is correct, she charged a dollar more for the precision bore
>glass, now were at $4.00 a tube. "Optically correct"??? What kind of bull
>shit is this, I don't use them to read with you moron, and it sure as hell
>doesn't justify the price reaming your giving your customers on this.
>
>Bruic
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
>To: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>; <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>;
'Chris
>Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
>Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com>
>Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:18 AM
>Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
>
>
>> Sure Mike, the ones you showed us were not precision bore glass, flame
>> polished or optically correct. They didn't meet our specs.
>> You get what you pay for.
>> ta,ta
>> Dell Motes
>> Dive Rite
>> 117 W.Washington St.
>> Lake City, Florida 32055
>> www.dive-rite.com
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>
>> To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne*
>> <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
>> cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
>> Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; cavers@cavers.com
>> <cavers@cavers.com>
>> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 10:16 PM
>> Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
>>
>>
>> >Dell, can you please explain to "all" members of this list why a test
>tube
>> >from Dive Right cost around $30.00, when I showed you guys where to get
>> them
>> >custom made for less than $3.00 ea.  That's one hell of a mark-up if you
>> ask
>> >me.
>> >
>> >Bruic
>> >
>> >
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
>> >To: <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
>> ><cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
>> >Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com>
>> >Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:57 PM
>> >Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
>> >
>> >
>> >> Depending on the test tube light design, there are a few ways to
>prevent
>> >> lens loss.
>> >> First, don't lubricate the o-rings, simply wet them (very lightly)
when
>> >> installing the lens. Lubrication makes them way too easy to pop off
>when
>> >> hot, the pressure pushes them right of the end. The slight moisture
>will
>> >dry
>> >> quickly and never be seen again.
>> >> Relieving the pressure while pressing the lens in place can be done in
>a
>> >> couple of ways. If it has an easily loosened compression type sealing
>> >gland
>> >> on the cord, just back off the nut (not the gland itself, use two
>> >wrenches)
>> >> and wiggle the cord. This will allow air to escape out around the cord
>> >while
>> >> the lens is being pushed on. Once the lens is in place, re-tighten the
>> nut
>> >> on the gland. If the gland is not accessible, (or easily loosened),
you
>> >can
>> >> "vacuum seal" the lens in place. Place the head on a flat surface and
>> push
>> >> the lens on till it loosely touches the first o-ring. Now turn the
>light
>> >on
>> >> for a few minutes. This will heat the lens and the head at the same
>time.
>> >> Once it is nice and warm, turn the light off and grasp the lens with a
>> >towel
>> >> (or something of that nature) and push the lens in place. Once the
>whole
>> >> assembly cools, it will be in a vacuum state. Naturally, the head
>> material
>> >> needs to be such that it can be burned for a short time out of the
>water
>> >for
>> >> this "vacuum" method.
>> >> Aluminum and Delrin will have no problems with this. PVC or others
>would
>> >be
>> >> highly suspect.
>> >> Any high quality glass lens will have no problems either. The o-rings
>can
>> >> stand alot of heat as well.
>> >>
>> >> You should always pull a test tube style out of it's reflector before
>> >using,
>> >> just to check the seals. The lens can be hit in such a way that it
>cracks
>> >> the lens at the base, (where the o-rings are), but still appears to be
>> >just
>> >> fine while still in the reflector because this area is hidden from
>view.
>> >> Dell Motes
>> >> Dive Rite
>> >> 117 W.Washington St.
>> >> Lake City, Florida 32055
>> >> www.dive-rite.com
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> -----Original Message-----
>> >> From: Paul Harris <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>
>> >> To: 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; cmilz@Mi*.ED*
>> <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
>> >> Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; cavers@cavers.com
>> >> <cavers@cavers.com>
>> >> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:07 PM
>> >> Subject: RE: AUL canister light / light cord
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> >Chris,
>> >> >I'm not sure about this as a solution.
>> >> >Some friends and I were discussing non-wicking wire.
>> >> >My (humble) opinion is that you need some way of transfering
>> >> >air from the light head when you push the test tube on otherwise
>> >> >the positive pressure will push it off.
>> >> >
>> >> >I have noticed that it is much easier to remove or replace the
>> >> >test tube when the lid is off the cannister.
>> >> >
>> >> >r
>> >> >Paul
>> >> >
>> >> >> Claudia,
>> >> >>      When I replaced my electrical cord I peeled the
>> >> >> insulation back from both ends (after cutting it to the right
>> >> >> length), put a wad of aquaseal around the wires, then pulled
>> >> >> the insulation back up. This will keep any water from getting
>> >> >> through a nick in the insulation and into the canister which
>> >> >> may be what's happening to yours.
>> >> >> C.
>> >> >
>> >> >--
>> >> >Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to
>`techdiver@aq*.co*'.
>> >> >Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to
>`techdiver-request@aq*.co*'.
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>>
>>
>
>

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