Yea, that is correct, she charged a dollar more for the precision bore
glass, now were at $4.00 a tube. "Optically correct"??? What kind of bull
shit is this, I don't use them to read with you moron, and it sure as hell
doesn't justify the price reaming your giving your customers on this.

Bruic

----- Original Message -----
From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
To: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>; <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris
Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord


> Sure Mike, the ones you showed us were not precision bore glass, flame
> polished or optically correct. They didn't meet our specs.
> You get what you pay for.
> ta,ta
> Dell Motes
> Dive Rite
> 117 W.Washington St.
> Lake City, Florida 32055
> www.dive-rite.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>
> To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne*
> <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
> cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; cavers@cavers.com
> <cavers@cavers.com>
> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 10:16 PM
> Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
>
>
> >Dell, can you please explain to "all" members of this list why a test
tube
> >from Dive Right cost around $30.00, when I showed you guys where to get
> them
> >custom made for less than $3.00 ea.  That's one hell of a mark-up if you
> ask
> >me.
> >
> >Bruic
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
> >To: <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
> ><cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> >Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com>
> >Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:57 PM
> >Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
> >
> >
> >> Depending on the test tube light design, there are a few ways to
prevent
> >> lens loss.
> >> First, don't lubricate the o-rings, simply wet them (very lightly) when
> >> installing the lens. Lubrication makes them way too easy to pop off
when
> >> hot, the pressure pushes them right of the end. The slight moisture
will
> >dry
> >> quickly and never be seen again.
> >> Relieving the pressure while pressing the lens in place can be done in
a
> >> couple of ways. If it has an easily loosened compression type sealing
> >gland
> >> on the cord, just back off the nut (not the gland itself, use two
> >wrenches)
> >> and wiggle the cord. This will allow air to escape out around the cord
> >while
> >> the lens is being pushed on. Once the lens is in place, re-tighten the
> nut
> >> on the gland. If the gland is not accessible, (or easily loosened), you
> >can
> >> "vacuum seal" the lens in place. Place the head on a flat surface and
> push
> >> the lens on till it loosely touches the first o-ring. Now turn the
light
> >on
> >> for a few minutes. This will heat the lens and the head at the same
time.
> >> Once it is nice and warm, turn the light off and grasp the lens with a
> >towel
> >> (or something of that nature) and push the lens in place. Once the
whole
> >> assembly cools, it will be in a vacuum state. Naturally, the head
> material
> >> needs to be such that it can be burned for a short time out of the
water
> >for
> >> this "vacuum" method.
> >> Aluminum and Delrin will have no problems with this. PVC or others
would
> >be
> >> highly suspect.
> >> Any high quality glass lens will have no problems either. The o-rings
can
> >> stand alot of heat as well.
> >>
> >> You should always pull a test tube style out of it's reflector before
> >using,
> >> just to check the seals. The lens can be hit in such a way that it
cracks
> >> the lens at the base, (where the o-rings are), but still appears to be
> >just
> >> fine while still in the reflector because this area is hidden from
view.
> >> Dell Motes
> >> Dive Rite
> >> 117 W.Washington St.
> >> Lake City, Florida 32055
> >> www.dive-rite.com
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Paul Harris <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>
> >> To: 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; cmilz@Mi*.ED*
> <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> >> Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; cavers@cavers.com
> >> <cavers@cavers.com>
> >> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:07 PM
> >> Subject: RE: AUL canister light / light cord
> >>
> >>
> >> >Chris,
> >> >I'm not sure about this as a solution.
> >> >Some friends and I were discussing non-wicking wire.
> >> >My (humble) opinion is that you need some way of transfering
> >> >air from the light head when you push the test tube on otherwise
> >> >the positive pressure will push it off.
> >> >
> >> >I have noticed that it is much easier to remove or replace the
> >> >test tube when the lid is off the cannister.
> >> >
> >> >r
> >> >Paul
> >> >
> >> >> Claudia,
> >> >>      When I replaced my electrical cord I peeled the
> >> >> insulation back from both ends (after cutting it to the right
> >> >> length), put a wad of aquaseal around the wires, then pulled
> >> >> the insulation back up. This will keep any water from getting
> >> >> through a nick in the insulation and into the canister which
> >> >> may be what's happening to yours.
> >> >> C.
> >> >
> >> >--
> >> >Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to
`techdiver@aq*.co*'.
> >> >Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to
`techdiver-request@aq*.co*'.
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>

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