Sure Mike, the ones you showed us were not precision bore glass, flame
polished or optically correct. They didn't meet our specs.
You get what you pay for.
ta,ta
Dell Motes
Dive Rite
117 W.Washington St.
Lake City, Florida 32055
www.dive-rite.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>
To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne*
<paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; cavers@cavers.com
<cavers@cavers.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord


>Dell, can you please explain to "all" members of this list why a test tube
>from Dive Right cost around $30.00, when I showed you guys where to get
them
>custom made for less than $3.00 ea.  That's one hell of a mark-up if you
ask
>me.
>
>Bruic
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
>To: <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
><cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
>Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:57 PM
>Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
>
>
>> Depending on the test tube light design, there are a few ways to prevent
>> lens loss.
>> First, don't lubricate the o-rings, simply wet them (very lightly) when
>> installing the lens. Lubrication makes them way too easy to pop off when
>> hot, the pressure pushes them right of the end. The slight moisture will
>dry
>> quickly and never be seen again.
>> Relieving the pressure while pressing the lens in place can be done in a
>> couple of ways. If it has an easily loosened compression type sealing
>gland
>> on the cord, just back off the nut (not the gland itself, use two
>wrenches)
>> and wiggle the cord. This will allow air to escape out around the cord
>while
>> the lens is being pushed on. Once the lens is in place, re-tighten the
nut
>> on the gland. If the gland is not accessible, (or easily loosened), you
>can
>> "vacuum seal" the lens in place. Place the head on a flat surface and
push
>> the lens on till it loosely touches the first o-ring. Now turn the light
>on
>> for a few minutes. This will heat the lens and the head at the same time.
>> Once it is nice and warm, turn the light off and grasp the lens with a
>towel
>> (or something of that nature) and push the lens in place. Once the whole
>> assembly cools, it will be in a vacuum state. Naturally, the head
material
>> needs to be such that it can be burned for a short time out of the water
>for
>> this "vacuum" method.
>> Aluminum and Delrin will have no problems with this. PVC or others would
>be
>> highly suspect.
>> Any high quality glass lens will have no problems either. The o-rings can
>> stand alot of heat as well.
>>
>> You should always pull a test tube style out of it's reflector before
>using,
>> just to check the seals. The lens can be hit in such a way that it cracks
>> the lens at the base, (where the o-rings are), but still appears to be
>just
>> fine while still in the reflector because this area is hidden from view.
>> Dell Motes
>> Dive Rite
>> 117 W.Washington St.
>> Lake City, Florida 32055
>> www.dive-rite.com
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Paul Harris <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>
>> To: 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; cmilz@Mi*.ED*
<cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
>> Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; cavers@cavers.com
>> <cavers@cavers.com>
>> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:07 PM
>> Subject: RE: AUL canister light / light cord
>>
>>
>> >Chris,
>> >I'm not sure about this as a solution.
>> >Some friends and I were discussing non-wicking wire.
>> >My (humble) opinion is that you need some way of transfering
>> >air from the light head when you push the test tube on otherwise
>> >the positive pressure will push it off.
>> >
>> >I have noticed that it is much easier to remove or replace the
>> >test tube when the lid is off the cannister.
>> >
>> >r
>> >Paul
>> >
>> >> Claudia,
>> >>      When I replaced my electrical cord I peeled the
>> >> insulation back from both ends (after cutting it to the right
>> >> length), put a wad of aquaseal around the wires, then pulled
>> >> the insulation back up. This will keep any water from getting
>> >> through a nick in the insulation and into the canister which
>> >> may be what's happening to yours.
>> >> C.
>> >
>> >--
>> >Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aq*.co*'.
>> >Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aq*.co*'.
>> >
>>
>>
>

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