Ah..... little dell is all pissed and pouty because he can't answer the
question, maybe you should go check with your daddy (lamar).

Bruic

----- Original Message -----
From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
To: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>; <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris
Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:57 AM
Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord


> Now I'm a moron ?
> Your a real class act, Bruic.
> You need to go back to scamming college girls into your porn "calendar".
> Yep, a real class guy.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>
> To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne*
> <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
> cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; cavers@cavers.com
> <cavers@cavers.com>
> Date: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:32 AM
> Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
>
>
> >Yea, that is correct, she charged a dollar more for the precision bore
> >glass, now were at $4.00 a tube. "Optically correct"??? What kind of bull
> >shit is this, I don't use them to read with you moron, and it sure as
hell
> >doesn't justify the price reaming your giving your customers on this.
> >
> >Bruic
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
> >To: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>; <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>;
> 'Chris
> >Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> >Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com>
> >Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:18 AM
> >Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
> >
> >
> >> Sure Mike, the ones you showed us were not precision bore glass, flame
> >> polished or optically correct. They didn't meet our specs.
> >> You get what you pay for.
> >> ta,ta
> >> Dell Motes
> >> Dive Rite
> >> 117 W.Washington St.
> >> Lake City, Florida 32055
> >> www.dive-rite.com
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>
> >> To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne*
> >> <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
> >> cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> >> Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; cavers@cavers.com
> >> <cavers@cavers.com>
> >> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 10:16 PM
> >> Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
> >>
> >>
> >> >Dell, can you please explain to "all" members of this list why a test
> >tube
> >> >from Dive Right cost around $30.00, when I showed you guys where to
get
> >> them
> >> >custom made for less than $3.00 ea.  That's one hell of a mark-up if
you
> >> ask
> >> >me.
> >> >
> >> >Bruic
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >----- Original Message -----
> >> >From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
> >> >To: <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
> >> ><cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> >> >Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com>
> >> >Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:57 PM
> >> >Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >> Depending on the test tube light design, there are a few ways to
> >prevent
> >> >> lens loss.
> >> >> First, don't lubricate the o-rings, simply wet them (very lightly)
> when
> >> >> installing the lens. Lubrication makes them way too easy to pop off
> >when
> >> >> hot, the pressure pushes them right of the end. The slight moisture
> >will
> >> >dry
> >> >> quickly and never be seen again.
> >> >> Relieving the pressure while pressing the lens in place can be done
in
> >a
> >> >> couple of ways. If it has an easily loosened compression type
sealing
> >> >gland
> >> >> on the cord, just back off the nut (not the gland itself, use two
> >> >wrenches)
> >> >> and wiggle the cord. This will allow air to escape out around the
cord
> >> >while
> >> >> the lens is being pushed on. Once the lens is in place, re-tighten
the
> >> nut
> >> >> on the gland. If the gland is not accessible, (or easily loosened),
> you
> >> >can
> >> >> "vacuum seal" the lens in place. Place the head on a flat surface
and
> >> push
> >> >> the lens on till it loosely touches the first o-ring. Now turn the
> >light
> >> >on
> >> >> for a few minutes. This will heat the lens and the head at the same
> >time.
> >> >> Once it is nice and warm, turn the light off and grasp the lens with
a
> >> >towel
> >> >> (or something of that nature) and push the lens in place. Once the
> >whole
> >> >> assembly cools, it will be in a vacuum state. Naturally, the head
> >> material
> >> >> needs to be such that it can be burned for a short time out of the
> >water
> >> >for
> >> >> this "vacuum" method.
> >> >> Aluminum and Delrin will have no problems with this. PVC or others
> >would
> >> >be
> >> >> highly suspect.
> >> >> Any high quality glass lens will have no problems either. The
o-rings
> >can
> >> >> stand alot of heat as well.
> >> >>
> >> >> You should always pull a test tube style out of it's reflector
before
> >> >using,
> >> >> just to check the seals. The lens can be hit in such a way that it
> >cracks
> >> >> the lens at the base, (where the o-rings are), but still appears to
be
> >> >just
> >> >> fine while still in the reflector because this area is hidden from
> >view.
> >> >> Dell Motes
> >> >> Dive Rite
> >> >> 117 W.Washington St.
> >> >> Lake City, Florida 32055
> >> >> www.dive-rite.com
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> >> From: Paul Harris <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>
> >> >> To: 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; cmilz@Mi*.ED*
> >> <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> >> >> Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>;
cavers@cavers.com
> >> >> <cavers@cavers.com>
> >> >> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:07 PM
> >> >> Subject: RE: AUL canister light / light cord
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> >Chris,
> >> >> >I'm not sure about this as a solution.
> >> >> >Some friends and I were discussing non-wicking wire.
> >> >> >My (humble) opinion is that you need some way of transfering
> >> >> >air from the light head when you push the test tube on otherwise
> >> >> >the positive pressure will push it off.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I have noticed that it is much easier to remove or replace the
> >> >> >test tube when the lid is off the cannister.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >r
> >> >> >Paul
> >> >> >
> >> >> >> Claudia,
> >> >> >>      When I replaced my electrical cord I peeled the
> >> >> >> insulation back from both ends (after cutting it to the right
> >> >> >> length), put a wad of aquaseal around the wires, then pulled
> >> >> >> the insulation back up. This will keep any water from getting
> >> >> >> through a nick in the insulation and into the canister which
> >> >> >> may be what's happening to yours.
> >> >> >> C.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >--
> >> >> >Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to
> >`techdiver@aq*.co*'.
> >> >> >Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to
> >`techdiver-request@aq*.co*'.
> >> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>

Navigate by Author: [Previous] [Next] [Author Search Index]
Navigate by Subject: [Previous] [Next] [Subject Search Index]

[Send Reply] [Send Message with New Topic]

[Search Selection] [Mailing List Home] [Home]