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From: trey@ne*.co* (Trey)
To: "Bryon Bertrim" <bryon@be*.co*>, <techdiver@aquanaut.com>
Subject: RE: E/O Cable on HID light
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 05:59:37 -0400
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The spring inside the connector was not holding up, so they changed to
connectors with different springs which look the same on the outside. I had
four of these which I did the following with: on the two normal lights, I
replaced them with hard wiring. On my long range lights, I went to the new
spring. The only reason one needs the detachables is either in the case of
my kind of diving, where the bottom time is so long that we want to be able
to switch bulbs ( we would not carry two primaries ), or if somebody wanted
to be able to switch between regular and video, which I personally think is
bullshit. I would have two canister lids and I would always still carry the
primary separate from the video light, but gimmicks are what people want.

Anything will disrupt an HID head. At any point in the connections anywhere
it can interrupt and the beam is dropped.

You weenies are too funny - you cry like babies when somebody makes what you
want. Maybe Halcyon should not sell you guys our latest toys until we have
finished smoothing them all the way out, maybe a year later, or maybe just
sell them to those who understand that to get what you want you have to go
with what is available.

The problem is not Halcyon, it is those who want knick knacks and trickery
who have no legitimate reason for it and still demand it. By the way, my
long range lights never failed, but I changed them out anyway. The others
are a pain in the ass because the cord will pull off if it catches on
something, a big risk at a potentially bad time. For that reason it is a bad
idea, but it is what you guys asked for.  I suffer it on the long range
light because I am diving with an all pro partner, and I do not see daylight
for about 9 hours, so need a 13 hour light.

Otherwise, hard wired is best, and if you really want it to work, remove the
connectors and hard solder it to the battery, and leave enough tail to open
and close the lid . Or , you can "warn" everyone not to buy them.

I guess I should be crying about the fifteen or so different computers I
have bought over the years because they are not as fast as this one is,
right?


  -----Original Message-----
  From: Bryon Bertrim [mailto:bryon@be*.co*]
  Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 11:42 PM
  To: techdiver@aquanaut.com
  Subject: E/O Cable on HID light


  I am writing this mail to warn others not to purchase the Halcyon HID with
the E/O cable like i did. Its a very poor design and i think Halcyon should
know better. It turns out they know all about the problem yet they go on
selling them. I expected more from them. The problem is that on a HID any
drop in power drops the light until it can be reset which can take a min of
15-30 seconds. Even a slight tap or twist at the E/O will drop the light.
You really don't notice it with standard halogen bulbs. EE suggested i hit
the connector with a rubber mallet, this works for a dive but you never know
when the blackout is coming. I will go back to a standard cable or consider
a more reliable E/O.

  BB

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D4><SPAN =
class=3D570174209-22052001>The=20
spring inside the connector was not holding up, so they changed to =
connectors=20
with different springs which look the same on the outside. I had four of =
these=20
which I did the following with: on the two normal lights, I replaced =
them with=20
hard wiring. On my long range lights, I went to the new spring. The only =
reason=20
one needs the detachables is either in the case of my kind of diving, =
where the=20
bottom time is so long that we want to be able to switch bulbs ( we =
would not=20
carry two primaries ), or if somebody wanted to be able to switch =
between=20
regular and video, which I personally think is bullshit. I would have =
two=20
canister lids and I would always still carry the primary separate from =
the video=20
light, but gimmicks are what people want.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D4><SPAN=20
class=3D570174209-22052001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D4><SPAN=20
class=3D570174209-22052001>Anything will disrupt an HID head. At any =
point in the=20
connections anywhere it can interrupt and the beam is=20
dropped.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D4><SPAN=20
class=3D570174209-22052001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D4><SPAN =
class=3D570174209-22052001>You=20
weenies are too funny - you cry like babies when somebody makes what you =
want.=20
Maybe Halcyon should not sell you guys our latest toys until we have =
finished=20
smoothing them all the way out, maybe a year later, or maybe just sell =
them to=20
those who understand that to get what you want you have to go with what =
is=20
available. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D4><SPAN=20
class=3D570174209-22052001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D4><SPAN =
class=3D570174209-22052001>The=20
problem is not Halcyon, it is those who want knick knacks and trickery =
who have=20
no legitimate reason for it and still demand it. By the way, my long =
range=20
lights never failed, but I changed them out anyway. The others are a =
pain in the=20
ass because the cord will pull off if it catches on something, a big =
risk at a=20
potentially bad time. For that reason it is a bad idea, but it is what =
you guys=20
asked for.  I suffer it on the long range light because I am diving =
with an=20
all pro partner, and I do not see daylight for about 9 hours, so need a =
13 hour=20
light.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D4><SPAN=20
class=3D570174209-22052001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D4><SPAN=20
class=3D570174209-22052001>Otherwise, hard wired is best, and if you =
really want=20
it to work, remove the connectors and hard solder it to the battery, and =
leave=20
enough tail to open and close the lid . Or , you can "warn" everyone not =
to buy=20
them. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D4><SPAN=20
class=3D570174209-22052001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D4><SPAN =
class=3D570174209-22052001>I=20
guess I should be crying about the fifteen or so different computers I =
have=20
bought over the years because they are not as fast as this one is,=20
right?</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D4><SPAN=20
class=3D570174209-22052001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D4><SPAN=20
class=3D570174209-22052001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV align=3Dleft class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Bryon Bertrim=20
  [mailto:bryon@be*.co*]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, May 21, 2001 11:42=20
  PM<BR><B>To:</B> techdiver@aquanaut.com<BR><B>Subject:</B>
E/O Cable =
on HID=20
  light<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3D"Comic Sans MS">I am writing this =
mail to warn=20
  others not to purchase the Halcyon HID with the E/O cable like i did. =
Its a=20
  very poor design and i think Halcyon should know better. It turns out =
they=20
  know all about the problem yet they go on selling them. I expected =
more from=20
  them. The problem is that on a HID any drop in power drops the light =
until it=20
  can be reset which can take a min of 15-30 seconds. Even a slight tap =
or twist=20
  at the E/O will drop the light. You really don't notice it with =
standard=20
  halogen bulbs. EE suggested i hit the connector with a rubber mallet, =
this=20
  works for a dive but you never know when the blackout is coming. I =
will go=20
  back to a standard cable or consider a more reliable E/O.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3D"Comic Sans
MS"></FONT> </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff=20
face=3D"Comic Sans MS">BB</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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