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From: <kirvine@sa*.ne*>
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 07:02:43 -0500
To: Rob Sluys <rsluys@nm*.ed*>
CC: techdiver@aquanaut.com
Subject: Re: knot tying was: metal/metal connections
The clinch knot and the improved clinch knot with burned ends both hold
indefinitely. These are where you twist the line, pass the end though
the eye of the knot, and then pull and in the improved version you put
it back through the loop that you made by passing to the eye, and then
pull. For the real hot shots, the leader knot is a good one. This is
used to tie two diffrerent lines togethter seamlessly in fishing. I use
it to attach two differnt guages of mono in a breakaway leader to the
end of a double line when sailfishing. You can grab the heavy guage and
take a wrap and break the fish off at the smaller guage line. The knot
never seems to break, just the line. The point of these knot types is
that if they will not slip with mono, they will not slip with braided
nylon, and with nylon you can burn the knot and melt it tight.

Rob Sluys wrote:
> 
> List,
> When I went through and de-zip-tied my gear, I used a knot that I learned
> back in (grin) the boy scouts... when I learned it, they called it the
> water knot, but I'm not sure that's the right name. Anyway, here's how
> I've tied everything together, and it holds rock-solid. Conceptually, it's
> a pretty easy knot to describe, but it's a pain in the ass to tie
> right. All you need is to tie an overhand knot in one of the loose ends,
> then take your other standing end and follow the first line back through
> the knot backwards. Once you cinch it up, it doesn't move. It's about as
> solid a knot as I've ever seen... I've used it on everything from backup
> lights to my fin straps (home built springs)
> 
> ~Rob Sluys
> 
> rsluys@nm*.ed*
> 
> "If the horse is dead, dismount"
> 
> --
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