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From: "Sean T. Stevenson" <ststev@un*.co*>
To: "Rob Sluys" <rsluys@nm*.ed*>,
     "techdiver@aquanaut.com"
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 02:17:26 -0800
Subject: Re: knot tying was: metal/metal connections
The water knot is really more appropriate for joining two lines of
rectangular or other non-circular cross sections, such as webbing,
ribbon, tubular webbing, shoelaces, etc.  To be effective, you need to
back it up on both sides with an overhand around the standing part. 
The barrel, or double fisherman's knot, as used for tying prusiks, is
the more appropriate knot for joining braided cave or wreck line to
itself.  When tied properly, and subjected to repeated strain, the only
way to undo this one is with a knife.  Use synthetic line, and melt the
ends as close as possible to the knot without damaging the fibers
within the knot itself.

-Sean


On Fri, 17 Dec 1999 20:34:30 -0500, Rob Sluys wrote:

>List,
>When I went through and de-zip-tied my gear, I used a knot that I learned
>back in (grin) the boy scouts... when I learned it, they called it the
>water knot, but I'm not sure that's the right name. Anyway, here's how
>I've tied everything together, and it holds rock-solid. Conceptually, it's
>a pretty easy knot to describe, but it's a pain in the ass to tie
>right. All you need is to tie an overhand knot in one of the loose ends,
>then take your other standing end and follow the first line back through
>the knot backwards. Once you cinch it up, it doesn't move. It's about as
>solid a knot as I've ever seen... I've used it on everything from backup
>lights to my fin straps (home built springs)
>
>
>~Rob Sluys


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