On Mon, 27 Sep 1999 kirvine@sa*.ne* wrote:

> 7) there are no circuits or fuses in the light canister to fail ( the
> hid versions have a circuit in the head, but we carry replacement slugs
> with those)
>

George, you're forgetting something (maybe you didn't know):
the ballast on those HID lights puts out enough voltage,
particularly on start-up, to stop any human being's heart
stone dead if you should happen to have a tube integrity
problem.  In fact, the reason the ballast is up at the
light head is that Carl Saiva realized that he didn't
want thousands of volts going through a wire in WATER.
Unfortunately, that doesn't cover you for a ballast or light
head flood.  What Sartek won't tell you is that you're
basically climbing into the bathtub with a hair dryer,
and hoping the cord and sandwich baggie stay dry.

That's no shit - I love the color those HID's put out,
and they're very efficient, battery-wise, but it's still
scary stuff.  I'm speaking as an E.E. here.  Ask Bill Mee to 
take a serious look at these things if you think I'm full
of shit.

-Will



 
> 8) there are no crappy connectors in the light
> 
> 9) the cord runs through the lid with a proper compression fitting, and
> not some plastic insanity ( like the hood) or other insecure arrangement
> that would allow the cord to slide and hence leak
> 
> 10) the other end of the cord is equally secure
> 
> 11) the slug fits exactly to the head
> 
> 12) the head has exactly the correct reflector ( which is replaceable)
> for the perfect focus
> 
> 13) the batteries plug in with no moving wires by putting the lid on in
> the correct oreintation
> 
> 14) the pivot point is selectable for the belt loop  
> 
> 15) the o-rings are surface blowouts only , no embedded stupidity
> 
> 16) there are other wiring issues in the head, but we will skip that for
> now
> 
> 17) the overall lngth of even the nicad version of my lights is shorter
> than anything made elasewhere for the same power, and hence fits more
> easily along the side of the diver with no discomfort or clustery
> 
> 18) only a braindead stroke would buy some has-been verion of nothing
> made by noboyd  when the real thing is available from the pros.
> 
> 19) you are a known rookie at this, and your attraction to this light
> alone makes it suspect.
> 
> 20) I have more, but I will let somebodly else finish this one off for
> real.
> 
> Kuiper, Greg wrote:
> > 
> > George Irvine,
> > By all means tell me why you think the Ralph Hood light is a pathetic
> > compromise for the real thing.  Also are saying that if it isn't made
> > by Barry Miller then it is not sufficient?  If this is not the case
> > then what other light brands do you recommend.
> > 
> > Greg Kuiper
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: kirvine@sa*.ne* [mailto:kirvine@sa*.ne*]
> > Sent: Saturday, September 25, 1999 9:28 AM
> > To: Kuiper, Greg
> > Cc: 'Elly & Matt'; techdiver@aquanaut.com
> > Subject: Re: Ralph Hood - Cannister Lights
> > 
> > Greg, like your Pelican backup light ( an oxymoron in this case) , the
> > 
> > Hood light is a pathetic compromise for the real thing.
> > 
> > Do you want to know why, or do you just want to stay in the dark.
> > 
> > Let me know .
> 
> 
> --
> Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
> Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
> 
--
Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.

Navigate by Author: [Previous] [Next] [Author Search Index]
Navigate by Subject: [Previous] [Next] [Subject Search Index]

[Send Reply] [Send Message with New Topic]

[Search Selection] [Mailing List Home] [Home]