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As John Lydon stated: > My own way of dealing with this problem was to take a piece of PVC pipe, cut it > down to the right length, then cut the correct width. Then attach the computer > and watch to it. I then put surgical tubing loops on the PVC at the right > length so it sits on my forearm but not too tight. Using stretchy tubing is a > good idea. > The idea is to make it as small as possible so that when you bend your elbow you > can still reach your valves. If the PVC is too long and you don't want to > shorten it, just "twist" the console to the outside of your forearm and it won't > interfere with your elbow bending. I do something similar to this (I have two electronic bottom timer / depth gauges, a Casio watch w/timer, knife & a small writing surface on mine), but I would like to add something. A friend of mine made a mold out of several wood blocks nailed together. These blocks were carved so that together they had the general shape of a forearm (albeit a generic, wet / dry - suit covered forearm). We heated an oven to 350 deg. F, and put the cut PVC section into the oven until it was soft and moldable (a few minutes). We took it out (be careful - use a hot pad), and put it on the mold while it cooled. After that, we cut off the excess bits here and there with a saw to customize it to my forearm. Next, a drill was used to make holes (four per bottom timer), and tap & die for making threads for 1/8" stainless steel screws in each of the holes. A stainless steel plate was (also with 4 holes drilled, which lined up with ones drilled in the PVC) was inserted each rubber console that came with the wrist-mounted bottom timer (the straps for these were cut off). The screws were screwed through the steel plates and into the PVC (be sure to use lock-tite), and cut off in the back, so as to be level with the PVC. This has worked-out really well for me, and it is very streamlined. The knife & watch were attached with T&Y tie wraps, through more holes drilled in the PVC. Hope this helps. Christina
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