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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 19:02:22 +0200 (MET DST)
To: <techdiver@aquanaut.com>
From: Hans Petter Roverud <proverud@on*.no*>
Subject: Freeze-up (was: re: hose routing)
At 20:21 26.07.98 +0000, Case E. Harris wrote:

>I've also found, however, that when descending on an anchor line (something
>rarely found in caves....I think!) the line itself can slip between the right
>post valve and the cylinder and roll off the right side as well. Granted,
>break off would be nearly impossible in this situation, and anyone smart
>enough to dive long hose on the right post would know within a few breaths
>that they had been shutoff.
>
>I guess this is just a bit more support for the practice of CHECKING your
>valves ANYTIME they some near something that could roll them off.
>
>Just my two-bits worth. I'll go back to lurking, reading, and learning
>now....

Slightly off-topic...

My diving is all open water (ocean or fjord diving) including limited
penetration wreck diving. Rolling off the left valve post is an unrealistic
concern, I believe, unless you brush against the ceiling of a cave. Wrecks
provide plenty of entanglement but rarely long passages with smooth ceilings
that may roll a valve off.

However, in colder water there's another reason to operate valves
underwater. Regs may freeze and free-flow. Your backup may free-flow the
moment you jump into the water. However, when a freeze-up presents itself
well into the dive it's obviously the reg you're breathing from that
freezes. For this reason it's a good idea to start a cold water dive (air or
water temp below 40F/4C) using your backup reg. I'll take my short hose
(backup) 5 min into the dive and switch to my primary. At that point my
primary has thawed up and is ready to go. 

Usually, freeze-ups start on the surface and progress due to the cooling of
depressurization. Still, deep freshwater dives in the summer (think more
like Lake Ontario than Ginnie Springs) may initiate freezing at depth. You
pump humid summer breeze into your tanks and take it to the frigid depths of
a lake. The combination of humidity, ambient low temperature and pressure
drop within the regulator may cause a freeze-up. 

In any event, valve close-down is a useful skill. You'd also want to know
which one to close down... For this reason it's paramount to set a standard
for yourself and your team. Left post, short hose & right post, long one --
breathe the long one primarily -- is my choice (sounds familiar?). My
breathing a little on each reg may seem to contradict this concern, but
switching really helps ensure that no particular reg turns into a block of
ice. If you stay on the main reg (right post/long hose) most of the time and
use the backup for descent only there should be no mix-up. If so, everybody
knows intuitively that a free-flow at depth means it's time to close the
right valve. 

Cave divers may roll valves off -- Scandinavians may turn them off on
purpose -- in the winter :-)

regards,

Hans
Norway  

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