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Subject: Re: Reed Switch Failure Mode
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 97 21:30:55 -0400
From: Jim Cobb <cobber@mi*.co*>
To: "Tech Diver" <techdiver@aquanaut.com>
Christalmighty, I haven't seen a post so nauseatingly detailed since 
Carl's trip report. Just what I need, more divots on my forehead. Why 
don't you just take this fucking scooter and shoot it, it needs to be put 
out of it's misery.

   Jim

on 6/8/97 7:46 PM Richards wrote:

>
>Persuant to an interesting little episode with my loaner scooter,
>the result of which Ken so gracefully mentioned; I have discovered
>an interesting and insidious failure mode for the standard reed
>switch which most of use have in our scooters.
>
>For those not in the loop:
>
>A reed switch is a small glass vial with two thin slits of metal 
>constructed into either end, one of which is pulled into the other
>by a magnetic force, closing a circuit between the two exposed wire 
>ends. They are normally low voltage circuits, just strong enough to 
>trip a larger relay, which controls power to scooter motors. 
>
>
>In the typical Tekna or Oceanic version (and I expect the Gavins as well)
>the reed switch is soldered to a wire on either side, and covered and 
>protected by heat shrink tubing. 
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>BEWARE: The reed switch vial will not withstand significant atmospheric 
>or hydrostatic pressure. Damage caused by either of these factors will most
>likely crack and break the glass vial. Unfortunately, the heat shrink tubing
>will temporarily hold the integrity of the vial, allowing the circuit to 
>operate normally, but totally shields the damage from even extremely close 
>examination. 
>
>This in turn will allow the internal connections to corrode, and/ or cause 
>the
>circuit to totally malfunction in the event of a sharp blow to the vehicle,
>often
>totally without any previous symptoms or indicators.
>
>
>SUPPORTING EVIDENCE: I borrow a Tekna DV3X on a fairly regular basis, and am
>the only operator of the vehicle. A few months ago, I took the vehicle to 
>Jackson Blue for a dive. I had improperly seated the main O-ring during a 
>pre-inspection the evening before, and as a result the vehicle flooded
>immediately
>upon intrance to the water. I did not notice this until i had reached 20 
>feet,
>where I dropped attempted to drop my Oxygen bottle. I immediately noticed
>that the
>scooter would not turn off, and aborting the dive, returned to the surface.
>(The dive mission was completed on another vehicle.)
>
>On post-dive inspection I found that the entire vehicle had been flooded,
>including the motor compartment (where the reed switches are housed) most 
>likely
>due to the age of the scooter or poor previous maintenance. I immediately
>drained 
>the entire vehicle and removed the bulkhead to allow it to dry, and to try
>to determine
>the extent of the damage.
>
>The following week, the scooter was reassembled, the motor compartment
>checked to 
>see if it held a vacuum (it did, with no loss) and returned to service.
>During the
>reconstruction process, I took the time to check all the wires for excessive
>resistance,
>which, thought it is a poor indicator of wire health, would immediately show
>breaks in the
>wires beneath the sheath, which would not be indicated on visual
>inspections. The reed switches,
>when closed, showed no resistance (measurable with a low grade ohmmeter.)
>
>The scooter was then dove at Ginnie Springs and surrounding caves a number
>of times. 
>No subsequent flooding was experienced, and the vehicle was inspected each
>and every dive.
>However, I did experience sporadic problems with the trigger mechanism,
>occasional sticking,
>or what I thought was sticking, and failure to activate. Each incidence was
>independent, 
>non-related to depth, and never consistant in either duration of effect or
>rate of occurance.
>
>Each time the scooter trigger mechanism was inspected for cable/pulley
>fouls, sticking 
>magnetic slider, and broken trigger assembly. None were indicated. I took to
>diving with
>the cable cover plate removed, so that i could observe the magnetic slider,
>and manually
>operate it if need be. Periodically a sharp strike to the scooter body would
>restart or 
>stop the scooter, but this was not always the case. 
>
>Following Our dive last Thursday, I once again totally dismantled the
>scooter, once having
>reduced the problem to loose wires, the relay, or the reed switch.
>Continuity was once again
>checked throughout the system, and this time the reed switch failed to close
>a circuit.
>(The last failure was an open circuit; the scooter would not turn on.) I 
>removed
>the switch, and carefully removed the shrink wrap tubing. To my suprise,
>shards of the 
>switch came with it. The connections had been corroded, despite the good
>installation of 
>the tubing. There was no previous indication of switch damage, either
>electrical or visual.
>
>CONCLUSIONS:
>
>The partial failure of my single reed switch caused sporadic trigger/motor
>control.
>The eventual complete failure of the reed switch stranded me 3000+ feet into
>the cave.
>        I believe that it could have just as easily failed in the closed
>position,
>        causing a much more dangerous situation.
>The only possible failure modes that I am aware of are submersion to 20 FFW
>or old age.
>The Protective cover presented me from noticing the damage upon visual
>inspection.
>The failure was not initially electrically indicated.
>
>I believe that in my case, the submersion of the switch to 20 FFW caused the
>initial 
>damage to the switch housing, which might have been assisted by the physical
>age of the
>housing (I doubt it). The protective shrink wrap, which I feel is necessary
>to expose
>the bare wire connections, prevented me from noticing the damage, a
>potentially dangerous
>but unavoidable situation.
>
>SOLUTION:
>
>Reed switches are cheap. I bought two more for $2.65 each. They require a
>little soldering,
>a volt/ohmmeter and less dexterity than it takes to type to these lists to
>install.
>
>If you have flooded your motor compartment, or continually sustain minor
>leaks (i.e. the 
>housing leaks enough to equalize the internal/external pressure) I suggest
>that you overhaul
>your switches/send them to Barry for closer inspection/replacement. 
>
>
>Does anyone have any more on this? Bill Gavin? 
>
>Thanks.
>
>		Jason Richards
>		NSS/CDS 41539
>		rchrds@ga*.ne*
>  
>
>
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