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Way Back in February....Todd Leonard wrote: > > I'm looking for a third person to go in on a 3-pack of O2 > sensors. Cost to you would be $95, including U.S. shipping. > The sensor in question is the PDS-1 from Pequod (sp?), which > is supposed to last longer than the sensors that come with > the Miniox or Spectrum analyzers. It comes with a warranty, > the specifics of which are at home, but my recollection is > replacement in the first two years is free and replacement > in the two years after that is $70. I'd confirm that before > placing the order. > > Note: Remember this is just the sensor, so to use it you'll > either need to have one of the commercial analyzers, or the > voltmeter, plumbing, and math necessary to do it yourself. > > Interested? Just email me. Thanks... > > - Todd Leonard > toddl@in*.co* Todd, and listmembers, I realize this is old news, but.... Are the O2 sensors in question very different from the component used in the emissions control systems found in "newer" cars and trucks? The one I'm familiar with is a jammy that screws into a socket near the exhaust manifold on my '91 F-150 truck. Dealer price for a replacement is like $80.00 (or was a few years ago) I bought an aftermarket (Bosch, I think) from an AutoZone for around $40.00 last year - the only difference between OEM and aftermarket (according to the parts guy at AutoZone) is the length of the cable that connects to it - OEM is shorter, aftermarket cable dangles a bit, and needs to be secured with a tie-wrap. I'm not out to start the "Long O2 Sensor Cable Stuffing" thread here, but if a comparable rig can be assembled from car parts for less money, I'd like to know.... Specific questions: As I understand it, the O2 sensor provides an output of voltage which varies based on the percentage of O2 in a gas stream forced through it. Correct? Is there some chemical process that occurs in the sensor itself that produces this voltage - or does a source voltage need to be applied (say from one or more 9volt batteries...)? If the latter is the case, then I assume the output voltage is produced by a changing voltage drop across a resistive component in the sensor - the value of which changes in some relationship (direct or inverse) with the percent of O2 in the gas stream. Either way, it doesn't seem too terribly complicated - one can use plain old compressed air from a tank as the "standard" to derive Volts/PO2 and just do the simple math to determine the PO2 of the cylinder under test. And to compensate for soft batteries and/or wear and tear on the sensor itself, one need only go through the plain jane air calibration prior to checking any mix. Right? Questions? Comments? Flames? The floor is yours gennelmen (& ladies...) Drew -- Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. Send list subscription requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
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