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You are one to talk about proper business practices. And not that I would use the MLS light. I wonder what the mark up is on an HID? Things are not as they seem. Trey, are you talking about when Dive Rite stiffed all their suppliers with a huge outstanding debt, filed for bankruptcy, then opened under "Lamar Tech" the same day? Yea, that was a real class act by some really classy people. Bruic ----- Original Message ----- From: Trey <trey@ne*.co*> To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*> Cc: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>; <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>; <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com> Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 10:32 AM Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > Dell, back to the personal attacks that you accuse everyone else of? > More hypocrisy from the usual people - the good ole boy dumb red necks. > > Anyone stupid enough to buy that ridiculous MLS light deserves to pay > $30 for a $4 test tube head, in my opinion. More sub optimal bullshit > gear from the dumb red necks with the big mouths, once again. > > You want to talk about "class acts"? Let's talk about dive rite and its > relationship with Leonard Marks and why. How about that? > > Dell Motes wrote: > > > > Now I'm a moron ? > > Your a real class act, Bruic. > > You need to go back to scamming college girls into your porn "calendar". > > Yep, a real class guy. > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*> > > To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne* > > <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; > > cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; cavers@cavers.com > > <cavers@cavers.com> > > Date: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:32 AM > > Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > > > >Yea, that is correct, she charged a dollar more for the precision bore > > >glass, now were at $4.00 a tube. "Optically correct"??? What kind of bull > > >shit is this, I don't use them to read with you moron, and it sure as hell > > >doesn't justify the price reaming your giving your customers on this. > > > > > >Bruic > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > > >From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*> > > >To: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>; <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; > > 'Chris > > >Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; <cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > >Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com> > > >Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:18 AM > > >Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > > > > > > > >> Sure Mike, the ones you showed us were not precision bore glass, flame > > >> polished or optically correct. They didn't meet our specs. > > >> You get what you pay for. > > >> ta,ta > > >> Dell Motes > > >> Dive Rite > > >> 117 W.Washington St. > > >> Lake City, Florida 32055 > > >> www.dive-rite.com > > >> > > >> -----Original Message----- > > >> From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*> > > >> To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne* > > >> <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; > > >> cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > >> Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; cavers@cavers.com > > >> <cavers@cavers.com> > > >> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 10:16 PM > > >> Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > >> > > >> > > >> >Dell, can you please explain to "all" members of this list why a test > > >tube > > >> >from Dive Right cost around $30.00, when I showed you guys where to get > > >> them > > >> >custom made for less than $3.00 ea. That's one hell of a mark-up if you > > >> ask > > >> >me. > > >> > > > >> >Bruic > > >> > > > >> > > > >> >----- Original Message ----- > > >> >From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*> > > >> >To: <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; > > >> ><cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > >> >Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com> > > >> >Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:57 PM > > >> >Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > >> > > > >> > > > >> >> Depending on the test tube light design, there are a few ways to > > >prevent > > >> >> lens loss. > > >> >> First, don't lubricate the o-rings, simply wet them (very lightly) > > when > > >> >> installing the lens. Lubrication makes them way too easy to pop off > > >when > > >> >> hot, the pressure pushes them right of the end. The slight moisture > > >will > > >> >dry > > >> >> quickly and never be seen again. > > >> >> Relieving the pressure while pressing the lens in place can be done in > > >a > > >> >> couple of ways. If it has an easily loosened compression type sealing > > >> >gland > > >> >> on the cord, just back off the nut (not the gland itself, use two > > >> >wrenches) > > >> >> and wiggle the cord. This will allow air to escape out around the cord > > >> >while > > >> >> the lens is being pushed on. Once the lens is in place, re-tighten the > > >> nut > > >> >> on the gland. If the gland is not accessible, (or easily loosened), > > you > > >> >can > > >> >> "vacuum seal" the lens in place. Place the head on a flat surface and > > >> push > > >> >> the lens on till it loosely touches the first o-ring. Now turn the > > >light > > >> >on > > >> >> for a few minutes. This will heat the lens and the head at the same > > >time. > > >> >> Once it is nice and warm, turn the light off and grasp the lens with a > > >> >towel > > >> >> (or something of that nature) and push the lens in place. Once the > > >whole > > >> >> assembly cools, it will be in a vacuum state. Naturally, the head > > >> material > > >> >> needs to be such that it can be burned for a short time out of the > > >water > > >> >for > > >> >> this "vacuum" method. > > >> >> Aluminum and Delrin will have no problems with this. PVC or others > > >would > > >> >be > > >> >> highly suspect. > > >> >> Any high quality glass lens will have no problems either. The o-rings > > >can > > >> >> stand alot of heat as well. > > >> >> > > >> >> You should always pull a test tube style out of it's reflector before > > >> >using, > > >> >> just to check the seals. The lens can be hit in such a way that it > > >cracks > > >> >> the lens at the base, (where the o-rings are), but still appears to be > > >> >just > > >> >> fine while still in the reflector because this area is hidden from > > >view. > > >> >> Dell Motes > > >> >> Dive Rite > > >> >> 117 W.Washington St. > > >> >> Lake City, Florida 32055 > > >> >> www.dive-rite.com > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> -----Original Message----- > > >> >> From: Paul Harris <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*> > > >> >> To: 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; cmilz@Mi*.ED* > > >> <cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > >> >> Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; cavers@cavers.com > > >> >> <cavers@cavers.com> > > >> >> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:07 PM > > >> >> Subject: RE: AUL canister light / light cord > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> >Chris, > > >> >> >I'm not sure about this as a solution. > > >> >> >Some friends and I were discussing non-wicking wire. > > >> >> >My (humble) opinion is that you need some way of transfering > > >> >> >air from the light head when you push the test tube on otherwise > > >> >> >the positive pressure will push it off. > > >> >> > > > >> >> >I have noticed that it is much easier to remove or replace the > > >> >> >test tube when the lid is off the cannister. > > >> >> > > > >> >> >r > > >> >> >Paul > > >> >> > > > >> >> >> Claudia, > > >> >> >> When I replaced my electrical cord I peeled the > > >> >> >> insulation back from both ends (after cutting it to the right > > >> >> >> length), put a wad of aquaseal around the wires, then pulled > > >> >> >> the insulation back up. This will keep any water from getting > > >> >> >> through a nick in the insulation and into the canister which > > >> >> >> may be what's happening to yours. > > >> >> >> C. > > >> >> > > > >> >> >-- > > >> >> >Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to > > >`techdiver@aq*.co*'. > > >> >> >Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to > > >`techdiver-request@aq*.co*'.
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