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Well, the ballast and lamp cost about $200 (for both) in single unit quantities from Welch-Allyn. I didn't get quantity discounts since I only built one. Use your existing canister, light head, etc. Get a new "test tube", connect the ballast, pot it, and mount it. Jack > -----Original Message----- > From: jrivers@ta*.rr*.co* [mailto:jrivers@ta*.rr*.co*] > Sent: Friday, May 12, 2000 3:06 AM > To: mikebruic@di*.co*; cavers@cavers.com > Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > > You are one to talk about proper business practices. And not > that I would use > the MLS light. I wonder what the mark up is on an HID? > > > Things are not as they seem. > > > > > > > > Trey, are you talking about when Dive Rite stiffed all their > suppliers with > a huge outstanding debt, filed for bankruptcy, then opened > under "Lamar > Tech" the same day? Yea, that was a real class act by some > really classy > people. > > Bruic > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Trey <trey@ne*.co*> > To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*> > Cc: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>; > <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris > Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>; > <techdiver@aq*.co*>; > <cavers@cavers.com> > Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 10:32 AM > Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > > > Dell, back to the personal attacks that you accuse everyone else of? > > More hypocrisy from the usual people - the good ole boy > dumb red necks. > > > > Anyone stupid enough to buy that ridiculous MLS light > deserves to pay > > $30 for a $4 test tube head, in my opinion. More sub > optimal bullshit > > gear from the dumb red necks with the big mouths, once again. > > > > You want to talk about "class acts"? Let's talk about dive > rite and its > > relationship with Leonard Marks and why. How about that? > > > > Dell Motes wrote: > > > > > > Now I'm a moron ? > > > Your a real class act, Bruic. > > > You need to go back to scamming college girls into your > porn "calendar". > > > Yep, a real class guy. > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*> > > > To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne* > > > <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; > > > cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > > Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; > cavers@cavers.com > > > <cavers@cavers.com> > > > Date: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:32 AM > > > Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > > > > > >Yea, that is correct, she charged a dollar more for the > precision bore > > > >glass, now were at $4.00 a tube. "Optically correct"??? > What kind of > bull > > > >shit is this, I don't use them to read with you moron, > and it sure as > hell > > > >doesn't justify the price reaming your giving your > customers on this. > > > > > > > >Bruic > > > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > > > >From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*> > > > >To: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>; > <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; > > > 'Chris > > > >Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; <cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > > >Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com> > > > >Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:18 AM > > > >Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > > > > > > > > > > >> Sure Mike, the ones you showed us were not precision > bore glass, > flame > > > >> polished or optically correct. They didn't meet our specs. > > > >> You get what you pay for. > > > >> ta,ta > > > >> Dell Motes > > > >> Dive Rite > > > >> 117 W.Washington St. > > > >> Lake City, Florida 32055 > > > >> www.dive-rite.com > > > >> > > > >> -----Original Message----- > > > >> From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*> > > > >> To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne* > > > >> <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; > > > >> cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > > >> Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; > cavers@cavers.com > > > >> <cavers@cavers.com> > > > >> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 10:16 PM > > > >> Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> >Dell, can you please explain to "all" members of this > list why a > test > > > >tube > > > >> >from Dive Right cost around $30.00, when I showed you > guys where to > get > > > >> them > > > >> >custom made for less than $3.00 ea. That's one hell > of a mark-up if > you > > > >> ask > > > >> >me. > > > >> > > > > >> >Bruic > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> >----- Original Message ----- > > > >> >From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*> > > > >> >To: <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' > <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; > > > >> ><cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > > >> >Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com> > > > >> >Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:57 PM > > > >> >Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> >> Depending on the test tube light design, there are > a few ways to > > > >prevent > > > >> >> lens loss. > > > >> >> First, don't lubricate the o-rings, simply wet them > (very lightly) > > > when > > > >> >> installing the lens. Lubrication makes them way too > easy to pop > off > > > >when > > > >> >> hot, the pressure pushes them right of the end. The slight > moisture > > > >will > > > >> >dry > > > >> >> quickly and never be seen again. > > > >> >> Relieving the pressure while pressing the lens in > place can be > done in > > > >a > > > >> >> couple of ways. If it has an easily loosened > compression type > sealing > > > >> >gland > > > >> >> on the cord, just back off the nut (not the gland > itself, use two > > > >> >wrenches) > > > >> >> and wiggle the cord. This will allow air to escape > out around the > cord > > > >> >while > > > >> >> the lens is being pushed on. Once the lens is in > place, re-tighten > the > > > >> nut > > > >> >> on the gland. If the gland is not accessible, (or easily > loosened), > > > you > > > >> >can > > > >> >> "vacuum seal" the lens in place. Place the head on > a flat surface > and > > > >> push > > > >> >> the lens on till it loosely touches the first > o-ring. Now turn the > > > >light > > > >> >on > > > >> >> for a few minutes. This will heat the lens and the > head at the > same > > > >time. > > > >> >> Once it is nice and warm, turn the light off and > grasp the lens > with a > > > >> >towel > > > >> >> (or something of that nature) and push the lens in > place. Once the > > > >whole > > > >> >> assembly cools, it will be in a vacuum state. > Naturally, the head > > > >> material > > > >> >> needs to be such that it can be burned for a short > time out of the > > > >water > > > >> >for > > > >> >> this "vacuum" method. > > > >> >> Aluminum and Delrin will have no problems with > this. PVC or others > > > >would > > > >> >be > > > >> >> highly suspect. > > > >> >> Any high quality glass lens will have no problems > either. The > o-rings > > > >can > > > >> >> stand alot of heat as well. > > > >> >> > > > >> >> You should always pull a test tube style out of > it's reflector > before > > > >> >using, > > > >> >> just to check the seals. The lens can be hit in > such a way that it > > > >cracks > > > >> >> the lens at the base, (where the o-rings are), but > still appears > to be > > > >> >just > > > >> >> fine while still in the reflector because this area > is hidden from > > > >view. > > > >> >> Dell Motes > > > >> >> Dive Rite > > > >> >> 117 W.Washington St. > > > >> >> Lake City, Florida 32055 > > > >> >> www.dive-rite.com > > > >> >> > > > >> >> > > > >> >> -----Original Message----- > > > >> >> From: Paul Harris <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*> > > > >> >> To: 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; cmilz@Mi*.ED* > > > >> <cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > > >> >> Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; > cavers@cavers.com > > > >> >> <cavers@cavers.com> > > > >> >> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:07 PM > > > >> >> Subject: RE: AUL canister light / light cord > > > >> >> > > > >> >> > > > >> >> >Chris, > > > >> >> >I'm not sure about this as a solution. > > > >> >> >Some friends and I were discussing non-wicking wire. > > > >> >> >My (humble) opinion is that you need some way of > transfering > > > >> >> >air from the light head when you push the test > tube on otherwise > > > >> >> >the positive pressure will push it off. > > > >> >> > > > > >> >> >I have noticed that it is much easier to remove or > replace the > > > >> >> >test tube when the lid is off the cannister. > > > >> >> > > > > >> >> >r > > > >> >> >Paul > > > >> >> > > > > >> >> >> Claudia, > > > >> >> >> When I replaced my electrical cord I peeled the > > > >> >> >> insulation back from both ends (after cutting it > to the right > > > >> >> >> length), put a wad of aquaseal around the wires, > then pulled > > > >> >> >> the insulation back up. This will keep any water > from getting > > > >> >> >> through a nick in the insulation and into the > canister which > > > >> >> >> may be what's happening to yours. > > > >> >> >> C. > > > >> >> > > > > >> >> >-- > > > >> >> >Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to > > > >`techdiver@aq*.co*'. > > > >> >> >Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to > > > >`techdiver-request@aq*.co*'. > > > >
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