Thanks Huu-Nghia.  I copied your response to the techdiver list, for the
benefit of anyone who may be following this thread.

I will plan for and add a couple of Optima Deep-Cycle batteries with isolating
hardware, as per your suggestion.  With the stereo installed, it's probably not
a bad idea in any case.  Questions for you:  
1) do I need to upsize my alternator?, and 2) after sealing the holes, cracks
and crevasses with an appropriate compound, can I just use one of those spray
on bed liners for the rest, or is there a 
particular product I need to use?

-Sean


On Thu, 12 Jul 2001 10:23:16 -0700, Vuong, Huu-Nghia wrote:

>Hi Sean,
>
>I am going to add some details to your list.
>
>For the part 7) inverter, in fact the best thing to do is
>to add one or two batteries to your onboard battery. This is
>what is done in RVs and Boats. You add a bank of "Deep-Cycle"
>batteries in your vehicle, so when the engine is not running
>all your electrical outlets (12VDC or 120VAC) are powered by
>this bank. A battery Isolator automatically disconnect the
>engine battery so you are sure to have enough power to crank the
>engine (plus the engine battery doesn't like to be empty
>not like "deep cycle" batteries. But when the engine is
>running, the battery isolator reconnect the bank of
>batteries to be charged. Plus it isolates the bank and the engine
>battery.
>
>If you sometimes scuba dive in salted water, whatever system
>of rinsing you are using, you will end up with salt in the van...
>
>Believe me, I have a scuba diving van for two years now.
>
>I would advise you to use sealant to avoid any salt water to go
>thru holes in the floor. So first, seal all the holes and THEN
>use a surface sealant several time. This will allow you to use your
>garden hose to clean the inside of the van and to rinse most of
>the salt ...
>
>kiki "user of a E-350 Heavy Duty van"
>
>--
>Huu-Nghia VUONG a.k.a. Kiki   Design and Performance Infrastructure
>Actel Corporation             Timing and Power Products
>955 East Arques Avenue        e-mail : kiki@ac*.co*     
>Sunnyvale, CA 94086           voice  : (408) 522 4382
>USA                           fax    : (408) 516 9894
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Sean T. Stevenson [mailto:ststev@un*.co*]
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 1:54 PM
>> To: techdiver@aquanaut.com
>> Subject: Re: Vehicles for diving
>> 
>> 
>> I recently posted an inquiry to the Quest list regarding van 
>> customizations.  The responses I received, plus input from 
>> other divers has led me to the following:
>> 
>> 1) Tank Racks:  you need racks on either side of the van that 
>> will accomodate twins, 80's, 40's or whatever you need.  The 
>> best way I have heard of so far is to use a rail with a 
>> number of webbing 
>> cinch straps along its length, and a base that will prevent 
>> the cylinder bottoms from slipping toward the vehicle centerline.
>> 
>> 2) Tank Stands: one of the main advantages of a van is the 
>> ability to accomodate two dressing divers, 1 at the rear and 
>> 1 at the side door, so a means of leaning up a set of doubles 
>> in the correct 
>> position to don and walk away, at both locations, is 
>> desirable.  Suggestions have included a hinged aluminum tube 
>> that just swings into place, or merely designing your 
>> racks/shelving to be in about the 
>> right place to give you this functionality.
>> 
>> 3)  Utility box/drawer/shelving, or some means of keeping 
>> small parts organized, including dive gear, but also tools, 
>> jumper cables, first aid kits, and so forth.
>> 
>> 4)  Fresh water rinse system, for those divers doing shore 
>> dives in salt water.  Use one of those showerheads with the 
>> flexible hose mounted on the rear door, fed either from a 
>> pump which runs on the 
>> vehicle electrical, or from a hard tank pressurized by a LP 
>> inflator fitting.
>> 
>> 5) Suit hanging apparatus. - The best idea so far: telescopic 
>> roof rack extensions which essentially create a closet rod 
>> extending from your vehicle which you can hang a suit on to 
>> rinse it, and then 
>> have line or bungy cord laced across the roof to suspend a 
>> not-quite-dry suit inside.
>> 
>> 6) Security - bars on all windows in the cargo area, dark 
>> window tinting, and a bulkhead to separate the cargo area 
>> from the driver/passenger.
>> 
>> 7)  Inverter - Sine wave AC from your vehicle's DC power - 
>> lets you run acessories such as AC battery chargers, power tools, etc.
>> 
>> 8)  Exterior lighting - Floodlights inside the van designed 
>> to illuminate the area immediately behind the rear door or 
>> adjacent to the sliding side door, when these doors are open.
>> 
>> 9)  Stereo equipment - I want to have aftermarket stereo 
>> components installed, but do not want to risk damage from 
>> water, grit or carelessness.  The solution - 6x9 and 
>> subwoofer enclosures which are 
>> mounted near the cieling, and designed as an integral part of 
>> the shelving/rack system so as to prevent accidental damage 
>> to the speakers themselves.
>> 
>> I'm still working on the layout of this stuff, as I'm still 
>> shopping for the right van.  I'll put a drawing together when 
>> I get the vehicle.
>> 
>> Comments?
>> 
>> -Sean
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
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