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Olaf, in some shipyard suppliers or sailors shops you will find a stuff which will most likely fix the SS/Alu corrosion problem. It is a mustard colored creme which is smeared to the threads to cover them completely and prevents galvanic corrosion. I used it to assemble an aluminium yacht, this stuff easily withstod a season at the canary isles, as well the journey back through the biscaya and channnel. BTW. normal steel, aesthetic concerns left aside, will come out easily, where ss srew sticks. Matthias Olaf Trygve Berglihn schrieb: > > terry michael <OEA51@go*.co*> writes: > > > Aluminum is always a compromise but SS is too heavy to do a Goodman > > handle and titanium is expensive. For people that are new to these > > things just make sure you get it set-up the way you want it up front > > - lubricating aluminum threads is really not so effective in this > > case. > > > > I agree with Olaf the SS static set screws in the aluminum will not > > come out without breaking the screws off and if your not using the > > reel but taking along in salt water then the dynamic lock screw will > > tend to freeze as well. > > I've been all around town today (Trondheim, Norway) to get someone > to remove the broken screw and redo the threds. I finaly got someone > at the physics lab at the university to do it (after a lot of hassle > about doing private stuff in the shop). The screws in the Goodman > handle are realy too tiny, and here in Europe, most people just shake > their head at the american thread-system. Well, I'll get it rethreaded > with UNF-threads. Good for me. > > The problem is not solved, however. I'll have to be very careful and > regrease the screws quite often. I.e. if I dont want them to corrode > shut. When I think of it, I'm really amased that EE/Halcyon guys have > not chosen some other design, not using different metal types > together. Using steel screws (acid resistant ones, even) in aluminum, > will create a electrochemical potential -> the aluminum corrodes. With > the presence of an electrolyte (such as salt water), this process is > quite rapid. Anyone dealing with metal constructions know this, it is > "accident waiting to happen". > > I can say many good things about the EE-Apollo and the Pathfinder > reels, but I would never buy another one, just because it is not good > enough - especially not in salt water. It might work well over time in > Wakulla, but I guess most people dive elsewhere (with haloclines, og > just plain salt water). > > While we're at it: the apollos come with a cord which only has a > waterproof outer cover of rubber. If you manage to tear a hole in the > outer insulation, your canister and lighthead will flood. I will soon > replace the cord with one that is total waterproof (should have done > that a long time ago). Also, there are several reports of floods of EE > lights in Norway when being used to 100 msw recently. The o-ring seem > to pop out of place. I'm not sure why, and it might be because of a > leak somewhere else (through the switch?) that causes a pressure > increase inside the canister that will pop out the o-ring when > reaching shallow water. You obviously need a quite big leak for this > theory to hold. Really, there should be something holding the o-ring > in place, and a different switch design should be considered (magnetic > without a hole trough the canister lid, maybe?). > > But all in all, I've not yet found many other products that match the > quality of Halcyon/EE. But they are not completely DIR in my > definition. If I ever want really to be DIR with my primary lights > and spools, I would have to make my own. > > Olaf > -- > Olaf Trygve Berglihn <olafb@pv*.or*> > -- > Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. > Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'. -- Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
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