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I use the preheat flames from my cutting torch to provide heat. The heat is applied from the top and since the torch is pretty hot, the melting happens very quickly. A small steel bucket with a foot of heavy steel wire to extend the handle is my crucible. A small prybar lets me pull the bottom edge of the bucket so I can pour. I work outdoors with the wind at my back, wear goggles, solid shoes and welding gloves, and have a pressurized garden hose nearby. With the speed of the cutting torch and the wind at my back, lead fumes aren't a problem. I have everything very close to the ground so when I stand up I am well away from any nasty gasses, vapors, or fumes. The cat and dog are locked in the house and the neighborhood kids aren't allowed in my fenced-in back yard during this. Everything is dried off so I get no steam surprises. At one point I wore full welding leathers for casting lead. I since have gone to just heavy work clothes and a welding shirt. If I didn't already have the welding clothes, I don't think I would buy any just for this. Just make sure there are no ways for molten lead to fall inside your clothes or shoes. Try loading up everything with cold lead so you will find out if anything can't handle the weight. It _really_ sucks to find this out with molten lead. Once the lead is in the mold and solidified, I use a light spray of water to speed the cooling. Don't get carried away with this. Don Burke From: Chris Tibble I want to make a 'V' weight in preparation for my new twinset, which I'm ordering soon. I have the lead weights, and I can make a mould no problem, but I want to know how best to (safely) melt the lead down. Any ideas about heat source and suitable container for molten lead? Protective gear? NetZero Platinum No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month! http://www.netzero.net -- Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
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