That is why there is a switch protector, so the
backup light does not fuck up the tip of the boot.
Otherwise, they do not fail. Problem solved years
ago. Ikelight makes the best boot, but will not sell
them. Gavin had a bunch of those made and I
stockpiled them for my own account. So far I have
not had to replace one. The boot Barry uses on the
EE light also is not a problem. I have three lights
with those boots for quite some time now.

Get an EE light and stop worrying about bullshit.
Those light are made for the WKPP, and we have
figured out all of the problems a long time ago.
-----Original Message-----
From: Klaus and Debbie Boehmke
<dboehmke@be*.ne*>
To: Jeff Disler <pdisler@io*.ne*>
Cc: techdiver@aquanaut.com <techdiver@aquanaut.com>
Date: Sunday, September 10, 2000 9:22 PM
Subject: Re: Tech question


>Jeff
>
>Thanks for the info but I was aware of all that. My
concern is the possible
>failure of the boot. Sounds like the latching relay
and a reed switch could be
>an alternate way to go.Is the boot leak a
legitimate concern and has anyone
>ever had this problem.
>
>Klaus
>
>
>Jeff Disler wrote:
>
>> At 10:45 AM 09/09/2000 -0400, Klaus and Debbie
Boehmke wrote:
>>
>> >> Hi all,
>> >>
>> >> After close examination and disassembly of my
Pro 6 lite, I have come to
>> >> the conclusion that the only thing between a
working lite and a flooded
>> >> lite, is a thin rubber membrane over the
on/off toggle switch.  Why is
>> >> this
>> >> more desireable over a reed magnetic switch
such as those used on DPVs?
>>
>> A reed switch is not designed to carry large
current loads. Some of the
>> reed switches (like the ones use in scooters and
electronics) will however
>> carry enough current to actuate the coil in a 12
volt relay made by any
>> number of manufactuers.
>> The relay used also must be capable of handling
the current that the
>> selected bulb draws.
>> You could build the light this way, as long as
the above conditions were
>> met, however, it would cause an increased
amperage drain (as the relay must
>> have a constant current flow to hold the coil) on
the entire system.
>> This of course would decrease the burn time of
the light, as well as reduce
>> the voltage the bulb sees, thus making the light
output somewhat less.
>>
>> Hella manufactuers a solid state relay that
enviromentally sealed and only
>> draws a few mah.
>> Also a latching relay would work. It takes a
voltage pulse to close the
>> relay (completing the current path) and another
to open the relay (closing
>> or breaking the current path). Latching relays do
take a small amout of
>> current to operate but the interval is very
brief(a few milliseconds). They
>> only draw current when the pulse is recieved they
by making them the choice
>> for applications where the need to keep the
voltage drain to a minumim is
>> desired.
>>
>> A switch on the other hand, has only a very small
amount of resistance and
>> is the less expensive method of curcuit
completion for said purpose.
>> Because of its simplicity, it is less prone to
failure.
>> Rubber boots come in varying thickness, I'd say
that might be the direction
>> to the solution.
>>
>> Regards JD
>>
>> "SILT HAPPENS"JD   JEFF DISLER
>>   SAFE CAVING       NSS 26000
>
>
>
>--
>Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to
`techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
>Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to
`techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
>

--
Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.

Navigate by Author: [Previous] [Next] [Author Search Index]
Navigate by Subject: [Previous] [Next] [Subject Search Index]

[Send Reply] [Send Message with New Topic]

[Search Selection] [Mailing List Home] [Home]