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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:58:23 -0400
From: gzambeck1 <gzambeck1@me*.ne*>
To: CaptnDale@ao*.co*
CC: mjblackmd@ya*.co*, techdiver@aquanaut.com
Subject: Re: DIR talk vs DIR diving
So your willing to say that a MK10  used 200 ft under the ice on air, set to
these
pressures (125 to 145 psi above ambient) is not going to freeze up on me?  Is
this
statement also good for Trimix (TX12/45) at 330 under the above condition?. 
This
is in consideration of the specific heat of the gas mixtures.

Greg Zambeck


CaptnDale@ao*.co* wrote:

> In a message dated 7/29/00 7:38:40 AM Central Daylight Time,
> gzambeck1@me*.ne* writes:
>
> << On the MK14 regulator, what is the interstage pressure and the
second stage
>  cracking pressure that you set the regulator for both recreational and
> technical
>  diving? >>
>
> The factory spec for the intermediate pressure of all Scubapro first stages
> is 125 to 145 psi above ambient.  Usually, out of the box, the factory
> setting will be about 140 to 145psi.  They are set to the high end of the
> range for better airflow for the recreational diver.  I adjust the i.p. down
> to near 125psi for cold water.  Even with the older style MK10, MK15 and MK20
> if the i.p. is set low like this there is little likelyhood of icing, unless
> you are a real Hoover or you do something stupid like using your second stage
> to directly fill a lift bag.  The new model of the MK20 has a composite
> piston and an insulating sleeve with sharp ridges to break away ice.  I think
> that it should be a pretty good cold water regulator as long as the i.p. is
> reset low.  The MK14 is nearly impervious to freeze-up.
>
> I usually set Scubapro balanced second stages, such as the G250, G500 and
> S600 for a breaking pressure of between 1" to 1.4" H2O -- more to the high
> side for cold water.  The D400 does not need to be readjusted for cold water.
>
> Safe diving,
> Dale

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