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Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 17:13:55 -0400
Subject: Re: [Re: Weights]
From: Jim Cobb <cobber@ma*.ci*.co*>
To: "Mcinnis, Don" <Don.Mcinnis@in*.co*>
CC: <techdiver@aquanaut.com>
I am not sure as I did not make my weight this way but it of course would
less dense than 100% lead or the head of your average Aussie diver.

An acetone buzz is right up there with sterno or fluorocarbons, believe me a
carbon filter mask is called for when dealing with quick set epoxies.

   Jim
 -------------------------------------------------------------------
 Learn About Trimix at http://www.cisatlantic.com/trimix/

> From: "Mcinnis, Don" <Don.Mcinnis@in*.co*>
> Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 15:42:15 -0500
> To: 'Jim Cobb' <cobber@ma*.ci*.co*>
> Cc: techdiver@aquanaut.com
> Subject: RE: [Re: Weights]
> 
> Jim,
> 
> How much did the resulting weight way in comparison with a straight lead
> weight? Also how good was the buzz?
> 
> Don
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Cobb [mailto:cobber@ma*.ci*.co*]
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 9:15 AM
> To: Bob Hines; m o; Paul Braunbehrens; Jim Cobb; Steve Schultz
> Cc: techdiver@aquanaut.com
> Subject: Re: [Re: Weights]
> 
> 
> As an alternative to molten lead some might consider what one of our VBTech
> crew came up with. Go down to the local gun store and buy a bag of lead
> shot, #9 or #12 would work. Then go down to your local marine supply store
> and purchase a gallon of epoxy resin, hardener and release agent. Mix
> yourself some lead/epoxy mixture and pour that into your V/P weight mould.
> Bill added some color to his, so you guys can even colorize your weights.
> 
> And for those of little common sense, do it in a closed room with no filter
> mask and you can get a great buzz and then a splitting headache from the
> fumes.
> 
> Jim
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Learn About Trimix at http://www.cisatlantic.com/trimix/
> 
>> From: Bob Hines <bhines.vwmc@us*.ne*>
>> Date: 19 Jun 00 08:56:58 EDT
>> To: Jim Cobb <cobber@ma*.ci*.co*>, m o <mooseo69@ya*.co*>, Paul
>> Braunbehrens <Bakalite@ba*.co*>, Jim Cobb <cobber@ci*.co*>,
> Steve
>> Schultz <se2schul@bl*.ma*.uw*.ca*>
>> Cc: <techdiver@aquanaut.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Re: Weights]
>> 
>> Jim:
>> 
>> Good answer to these accidents looking for a place to happen.  That's why
> we
>> use a kiln and protective clothing in our business to manufacture lead
>> products.  If they want a first hand account of what a splash of lead does
> to
>> flesh, they can call me at 1-800-635-5050.  It is painfull and long term
>> healing.  The infection possibility alone is sufficient reason not to mess
>> around with molten lead.
>> 
>> Bob Hines
>> Victory White Metal Co
>> Serving the best in Lead, Tin and Solder Alloys
>> 
>> Jim Cobb <cobber@ma*.ci*.co*> wrote:
>> The plastic would melt and burst into flames, spattering molten lead all
>> over the place. The wood would burst into flames too, but only after the
>> moisture steamed out of it, splattering molten lead all over the place.
> The
>> phase change from molten lead to solid is rather abrupt.
>> 
>> Come on people, let's use a little common sense here.
>> 
>> Jim
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Learn About Trimix at http://www.cisatlantic.com/trimix/
>> 
>>> From: m o <mooseo69@ya*.co*>
>>> Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 09:01:43 -0700 (PDT)
>>> To: Paul Braunbehrens <Bakalite@ba*.co*>, Jim Cobb
>>> <cobber@ci*.co*>, Steve Schultz
> <se2schul@bl*.ma*.uw*.ca*>
>>> Cc: techdiver@aquanaut.com
>>> Subject: Re: Weights
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I've been thinking of making one of these, and was
>>> thinking about doing the same thing...
>>> 
>>> I was thinking about taking a couple of 1/2" pvc caps
>>> or maybe a piece of wood dowel and just pressing them
>>> down as the lead starts to cool.  Would that work, or
>>> would they get stuck into the lead?
>>> 
>>> --- Paul Braunbehrens <Bakalite@ba*.co*> wrote:
>>>> Jim Cobb wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> If I were to do it again
>>>>> I would put the bolt/washer assembly in from the
>>>> side of the gully rather
>>>>> than directly on the back.
>>>> 
>>>> I was thinking of making it so it is held in place
>>>> by the two bolts
>>>> already there.  Is there any reason not to do that?
>>>> It would have 
>>>> to be thinner where the bolt is, so as not to make
>>>> the wing nut stick
>>>> out into your back, but that should't be too
>>>> difficult to cast.  Here
>>>> is a drawing...It probably only works with a fixed
>>>> font though.  It's
>>>> a cutaway showing the area where the bolts go
>>>> through.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> XXXXXX       XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
>>>> XXXXXXXX      
>>>> X     X       X                    X       X
>>>> X       
>>>> X      XXXX XXXX                    XXXX XXXX
>>>> X     
>>>> X         X X                          X X
>>>> X    
>>>> XXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
>>>> XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> Paul Braunbehrens mailto:Bakalite@ba*.co*
>>>> http://www.daw-mac.com Mailing list for digital
>>>> audio on the mac
>>>> --
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>>> 
>>> 
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>> 
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