As an alternative to molten lead some might consider what one of our VBTech
crew came up with. Go down to the local gun store and buy a bag of lead
shot, #9 or #12 would work. Then go down to your local marine supply store
and purchase a gallon of epoxy resin, hardener and release agent. Mix
yourself some lead/epoxy mixture and pour that into your V/P weight mould.
Bill added some color to his, so you guys can even colorize your weights.

And for those of little common sense, do it in a closed room with no filter
mask and you can get a great buzz and then a splitting headache from the
fumes.

   Jim
 -------------------------------------------------------------------
 Learn About Trimix at http://www.cisatlantic.com/trimix/

> From: Bob Hines <bhines.vwmc@us*.ne*>
> Date: 19 Jun 00 08:56:58 EDT
> To: Jim Cobb <cobber@ma*.ci*.co*>, m o <mooseo69@ya*.co*>, Paul
> Braunbehrens <Bakalite@ba*.co*>, Jim Cobb <cobber@ci*.co*>, Steve
> Schultz <se2schul@bl*.ma*.uw*.ca*>
> Cc: <techdiver@aquanaut.com>
> Subject: Re: [Re: Weights]
> 
> Jim:
> 
> Good answer to these accidents looking for a place to happen.  That's why we
> use a kiln and protective clothing in our business to manufacture lead
> products.  If they want a first hand account of what a splash of lead does to
> flesh, they can call me at 1-800-635-5050.  It is painfull and long term
> healing.  The infection possibility alone is sufficient reason not to mess
> around with molten lead.
> 
> Bob Hines
> Victory White Metal Co
> Serving the best in Lead, Tin and Solder Alloys
> 
> Jim Cobb <cobber@ma*.ci*.co*> wrote:
> The plastic would melt and burst into flames, spattering molten lead all
> over the place. The wood would burst into flames too, but only after the
> moisture steamed out of it, splattering molten lead all over the place. The
> phase change from molten lead to solid is rather abrupt.
> 
> Come on people, let's use a little common sense here.
> 
> Jim
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Learn About Trimix at http://www.cisatlantic.com/trimix/
> 
>> From: m o <mooseo69@ya*.co*>
>> Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 09:01:43 -0700 (PDT)
>> To: Paul Braunbehrens <Bakalite@ba*.co*>, Jim Cobb
>> <cobber@ci*.co*>, Steve Schultz <se2schul@bl*.ma*.uw*.ca*>
>> Cc: techdiver@aquanaut.com
>> Subject: Re: Weights
>> 
>> 
>> I've been thinking of making one of these, and was
>> thinking about doing the same thing...
>> 
>> I was thinking about taking a couple of 1/2" pvc caps
>> or maybe a piece of wood dowel and just pressing them
>> down as the lead starts to cool.  Would that work, or
>> would they get stuck into the lead?
>> 
>> --- Paul Braunbehrens <Bakalite@ba*.co*> wrote:
>>> Jim Cobb wrote:
>>> 
>>>> If I were to do it again
>>>> I would put the bolt/washer assembly in from the
>>> side of the gully rather
>>>> than directly on the back.
>>> 
>>> I was thinking of making it so it is held in place
>>> by the two bolts
>>> already there.  Is there any reason not to do that?
>>> It would have 
>>> to be thinner where the bolt is, so as not to make
>>> the wing nut stick
>>> out into your back, but that should't be too
>>> difficult to cast.  Here
>>> is a drawing...It probably only works with a fixed
>>> font though.  It's
>>> a cutaway showing the area where the bolts go
>>> through.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> XXXXXX       XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
>>> XXXXXXXX       
>>> X     X       X                    X       X
>>> X       
>>> X      XXXX XXXX                    XXXX XXXX
>>> X     
>>> X         X X                          X X
>>> X    
>>> XXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
>>> XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Paul Braunbehrens mailto:Bakalite@ba*.co*
>>> http://www.daw-mac.com Mailing list for digital
>>> audio on the mac
>>> --
>>> Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to
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>> 
>> 
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> 
> 
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