Rob, it's real simple - you haven't been totally hosed on the light
itself with EE. But then , let's do the math , big time: if everything
at DR were 33% more than at EE, what the fuck does that tell your stupid
ass?

Rob, maybe you can tell me why I should buy a "MLS" light without me
laughing in your face?

Calkins, Rob wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> Just for the record, the Dive-Rite lens is only $24.  The Extreme Exposure
> lens is $18.  Have not compaired them side by side, but not that much of a
> price difference.  I don't see you upset by the Extreame Exposure mark up.
> 
> Rob
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Mike Bruic [SMTP:mikebruic@di*.co*]
> > Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 3:35 AM
> > To:   Dell Motes; paul.r.harris@te*.ne*; 'Chris Elmore'; cmilz@Mi*.ED*
> > Cc:   techdiver@aquanaut.com; cavers@ca*.co*
> > Subject:      Re: AUL canister light / light cord
> >
> > Yea, that is correct, she charged a dollar more for the precision bore
> > glass, now were at $4.00 a tube. "Optically correct"??? What kind of bull
> > shit is this, I don't use them to read with you moron, and it sure as hell
> > doesn't justify the price reaming your giving your customers on this.
> >
> > Bruic
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
> > To: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>; <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>;
> > 'Chris
> > Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> > Cc: <techdiver@aquanaut.com>; <cavers@ca*.co*>
> > Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:18 AM
> > Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
> >
> >
> > > Sure Mike, the ones you showed us were not precision bore glass, flame
> > > polished or optically correct. They didn't meet our specs.
> > > You get what you pay for.
> > > ta,ta
> > > Dell Motes
> > > Dive Rite
> > > 117 W.Washington St.
> > > Lake City, Florida 32055
> > > www.dive-rite.com
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>
> > > To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne*
> > > <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
> > > cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> > > Cc: techdiver@aquanaut.com <techdiver@aquanaut.com>; cavers@ca*.co*
> > > <cavers@ca*.co*>
> > > Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 10:16 PM
> > > Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
> > >
> > >
> > > >Dell, can you please explain to "all" members of this list why a test
> > tube
> > > >from Dive Right cost around $30.00, when I showed you guys where to get
> > > them
> > > >custom made for less than $3.00 ea.  That's one hell of a mark-up if
> > you
> > > ask
> > > >me.
> > > >
> > > >Bruic
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > >From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
> > > >To: <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
> > > ><cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> > > >Cc: <techdiver@aquanaut.com>; <cavers@ca*.co*>
> > > >Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:57 PM
> > > >Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >> Depending on the test tube light design, there are a few ways to
> > prevent
> > > >> lens loss.
> > > >> First, don't lubricate the o-rings, simply wet them (very lightly)
> > when
> > > >> installing the lens. Lubrication makes them way too easy to pop off
> > when
> > > >> hot, the pressure pushes them right of the end. The slight moisture
> > will
> > > >dry
> > > >> quickly and never be seen again.
> > > >> Relieving the pressure while pressing the lens in place can be done
> > in
> > a
> > > >> couple of ways. If it has an easily loosened compression type sealing
> > > >gland
> > > >> on the cord, just back off the nut (not the gland itself, use two
> > > >wrenches)
> > > >> and wiggle the cord. This will allow air to escape out around the
> > cord
> > > >while
> > > >> the lens is being pushed on. Once the lens is in place, re-tighten
> > the
> > > nut
> > > >> on the gland. If the gland is not accessible, (or easily loosened),
> > you
> > > >can
> > > >> "vacuum seal" the lens in place. Place the head on a flat surface and
> > > push
> > > >> the lens on till it loosely touches the first o-ring. Now turn the
> > light
> > > >on
> > > >> for a few minutes. This will heat the lens and the head at the same
> > time.
> > > >> Once it is nice and warm, turn the light off and grasp the lens with
> > a
> > > >towel
> > > >> (or something of that nature) and push the lens in place. Once the
> > whole
> > > >> assembly cools, it will be in a vacuum state. Naturally, the head
> > > material
> > > >> needs to be such that it can be burned for a short time out of the
> > water
> > > >for
> > > >> this "vacuum" method.
> > > >> Aluminum and Delrin will have no problems with this. PVC or others
> > would
> > > >be
> > > >> highly suspect.
> > > >> Any high quality glass lens will have no problems either. The o-rings
> > can
> > > >> stand alot of heat as well.
> > > >>
> > > >> You should always pull a test tube style out of it's reflector before
> > > >using,
> > > >> just to check the seals. The lens can be hit in such a way that it
> > cracks
> > > >> the lens at the base, (where the o-rings are), but still appears to
> > be
> > > >just
> > > >> fine while still in the reflector because this area is hidden from
> > view.
> > > >> Dell Motes
> > > >> Dive Rite
> > > >> 117 W.Washington St.
> > > >> Lake City, Florida 32055
> > > >> www.dive-rite.com
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> -----Original Message-----
> > > >> From: Paul Harris <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>
> > > >> To: 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; cmilz@Mi*.ED*
> > > <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> > > >> Cc: techdiver@aquanaut.com <techdiver@aquanaut.com>;
> > cavers@ca*.co*
> > > >> <cavers@ca*.co*>
> > > >> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:07 PM
> > > >> Subject: RE: AUL canister light / light cord
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> >Chris,
> > > >> >I'm not sure about this as a solution.
> > > >> >Some friends and I were discussing non-wicking wire.
> > > >> >My (humble) opinion is that you need some way of transfering
> > > >> >air from the light head when you push the test tube on otherwise
> > > >> >the positive pressure will push it off.
> > > >> >
> > > >> >I have noticed that it is much easier to remove or replace the
> > > >> >test tube when the lid is off the cannister.
> > > >> >
> > > >> >r
> > > >> >Paul
> > > >> >
> > > >> >> Claudia,
> > > >> >>      When I replaced my electrical cord I peeled the
> > > >> >> insulation back from both ends (after cutting it to the right
> > > >> >> length), put a wad of aquaseal around the wires, then pulled
> > > >> >> the insulation back up. This will keep any water from getting
> > > >> >> through a nick in the insulation and into the canister which
> > > >> >> may be what's happening to yours.
> > > >> >> C.
> > > >> >
> > > >> >--
> > > >> >Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to
> > `techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
> > > >> >Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to
> > `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
> > > >> >
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> > >

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