Dell, back to the personal attacks that you accuse everyone else of?
More hypocrisy from the usual people - the good ole boy dumb red necks.

Anyone stupid enough to buy that ridiculous MLS light deserves to pay
$30 for a $4 test tube head, in my opinion. More sub optimal bullshit
gear from the dumb red necks with the big mouths, once again.

You want to talk about "class acts"? Let's talk about dive rite and its
relationship with Leonard Marks and why. How about that?

Dell Motes wrote:
> 
> Now I'm a moron ?
> Your a real class act, Bruic.
> You need to go back to scamming college girls into your porn "calendar".
> Yep, a real class guy.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>
> To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne*
> <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
> cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> Cc: techdiver@aquanaut.com <techdiver@aquanaut.com>; cavers@ca*.co*
> <cavers@ca*.co*>
> Date: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:32 AM
> Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
> 
> >Yea, that is correct, she charged a dollar more for the precision bore
> >glass, now were at $4.00 a tube. "Optically correct"??? What kind of bull
> >shit is this, I don't use them to read with you moron, and it sure as hell
> >doesn't justify the price reaming your giving your customers on this.
> >
> >Bruic
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
> >To: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>; <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>;
> 'Chris
> >Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> >Cc: <techdiver@aquanaut.com>; <cavers@ca*.co*>
> >Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:18 AM
> >Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
> >
> >
> >> Sure Mike, the ones you showed us were not precision bore glass, flame
> >> polished or optically correct. They didn't meet our specs.
> >> You get what you pay for.
> >> ta,ta
> >> Dell Motes
> >> Dive Rite
> >> 117 W.Washington St.
> >> Lake City, Florida 32055
> >> www.dive-rite.com
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>
> >> To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne*
> >> <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
> >> cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> >> Cc: techdiver@aquanaut.com <techdiver@aquanaut.com>; cavers@ca*.co*
> >> <cavers@ca*.co*>
> >> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 10:16 PM
> >> Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
> >>
> >>
> >> >Dell, can you please explain to "all" members of this list why a test
> >tube
> >> >from Dive Right cost around $30.00, when I showed you guys where to get
> >> them
> >> >custom made for less than $3.00 ea.  That's one hell of a mark-up if you
> >> ask
> >> >me.
> >> >
> >> >Bruic
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >----- Original Message -----
> >> >From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
> >> >To: <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
> >> ><cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> >> >Cc: <techdiver@aquanaut.com>; <cavers@ca*.co*>
> >> >Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:57 PM
> >> >Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >> Depending on the test tube light design, there are a few ways to
> >prevent
> >> >> lens loss.
> >> >> First, don't lubricate the o-rings, simply wet them (very lightly)
> when
> >> >> installing the lens. Lubrication makes them way too easy to pop off
> >when
> >> >> hot, the pressure pushes them right of the end. The slight moisture
> >will
> >> >dry
> >> >> quickly and never be seen again.
> >> >> Relieving the pressure while pressing the lens in place can be done in
> >a
> >> >> couple of ways. If it has an easily loosened compression type sealing
> >> >gland
> >> >> on the cord, just back off the nut (not the gland itself, use two
> >> >wrenches)
> >> >> and wiggle the cord. This will allow air to escape out around the cord
> >> >while
> >> >> the lens is being pushed on. Once the lens is in place, re-tighten the
> >> nut
> >> >> on the gland. If the gland is not accessible, (or easily loosened),
> you
> >> >can
> >> >> "vacuum seal" the lens in place. Place the head on a flat surface and
> >> push
> >> >> the lens on till it loosely touches the first o-ring. Now turn the
> >light
> >> >on
> >> >> for a few minutes. This will heat the lens and the head at the same
> >time.
> >> >> Once it is nice and warm, turn the light off and grasp the lens with a
> >> >towel
> >> >> (or something of that nature) and push the lens in place. Once the
> >whole
> >> >> assembly cools, it will be in a vacuum state. Naturally, the head
> >> material
> >> >> needs to be such that it can be burned for a short time out of the
> >water
> >> >for
> >> >> this "vacuum" method.
> >> >> Aluminum and Delrin will have no problems with this. PVC or others
> >would
> >> >be
> >> >> highly suspect.
> >> >> Any high quality glass lens will have no problems either. The o-rings
> >can
> >> >> stand alot of heat as well.
> >> >>
> >> >> You should always pull a test tube style out of it's reflector before
> >> >using,
> >> >> just to check the seals. The lens can be hit in such a way that it
> >cracks
> >> >> the lens at the base, (where the o-rings are), but still appears to be
> >> >just
> >> >> fine while still in the reflector because this area is hidden from
> >view.
> >> >> Dell Motes
> >> >> Dive Rite
> >> >> 117 W.Washington St.
> >> >> Lake City, Florida 32055
> >> >> www.dive-rite.com
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> >> From: Paul Harris <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>
> >> >> To: 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; cmilz@Mi*.ED*
> >> <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> >> >> Cc: techdiver@aquanaut.com <techdiver@aquanaut.com>; cavers@ca*.co*
> >> >> <cavers@ca*.co*>
> >> >> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:07 PM
> >> >> Subject: RE: AUL canister light / light cord
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> >Chris,
> >> >> >I'm not sure about this as a solution.
> >> >> >Some friends and I were discussing non-wicking wire.
> >> >> >My (humble) opinion is that you need some way of transfering
> >> >> >air from the light head when you push the test tube on otherwise
> >> >> >the positive pressure will push it off.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I have noticed that it is much easier to remove or replace the
> >> >> >test tube when the lid is off the cannister.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >r
> >> >> >Paul
> >> >> >
> >> >> >> Claudia,
> >> >> >>      When I replaced my electrical cord I peeled the
> >> >> >> insulation back from both ends (after cutting it to the right
> >> >> >> length), put a wad of aquaseal around the wires, then pulled
> >> >> >> the insulation back up. This will keep any water from getting
> >> >> >> through a nick in the insulation and into the canister which
> >> >> >> may be what's happening to yours.
> >> >> >> C.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >--
> >> >> >Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to
> >`techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
> >> >> >Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to
> >`techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
> >> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >


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