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Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 22:52:00 -0500 (EST)
From: Chris Lathan <clathan@wi*.fi*.ed*>
To: Joel Markwell <joeldm@mi*.co*>
cc: Rich Lesperance <richl@uf*.ed*>, techdiver@aquanaut.com
Subject: Re: soldering light batteries
Flux is the savior in this case!  It gets the solder off the iron and onto
the piece.

Chris Lathan
clathan@fi*.ed*

end

On Mon, 14 Feb 2000, Joel Markwell wrote:

> on 2/14/00 1:26 PM, Rich Lesperance at richl@uf*.ed* wrote:
> 
> > I just got two new batteries for my AUL spectrum 14 light - the old
batteries
> > were dogs with only about 70 min of burn time.
> > In getting ready to use these new batts, I discovered that soldering is a
> > little harder than it looks. Is there any downside to using slide-on
> > connectors to the battery terminals? I have the proper-sized connectors,
that
> > are crimped onto the wire, and slide on to the battery terminal, and hold
> > firmly, but I have never seen anyone's cannister lights without soldered
> > connections, so I was curious if there is a good reason not to.
> 
> Rich,
> 
> The suggestions made are good ones. Since getting the terminals too hot is a
> bad thing and you are being prompted to use ever increasing wattage/BTUs you
> might consider having it done by someone who solders things routinely. Maybe
> a call to Radio Shack, a TV repair shop, car stereo installer or computer
> repair facility.
> 
> Failing that, practice multiple times on non-critical fake-terminals until
> the connection is bullet-proof.
> 
> Here is a soldering primer:
> 
> http://www.teamnovak.com/How_to/How%20To%20Solder/solder.htm#Anchor-ATTACHIN
> G-35326
> 
> Some Rules of Thumb:
> 
> http://metcal.com/technotes/sldrbasc.html
> 
> Later,
> 
> JoeL
> 
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