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From: "Dan Ocklind" <ocklind@sw*.se*>
To: "techdiver" <techdiver@aquanaut.com>, "GUE list" <quest@gu*.co*>
Subject: Re: balanced rig, proper weighting and buoyancy
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 22:08:42 +0100
> At 05:44 AM 1/17/2000 -0500, Trey wrote:
> >          Usually, one uses C-4 and steel tanks with a light and maybe a
> >5 lb steel backplate in salt water to balance the rig. Some insist on
> >slamming on the extra insulation which defeats the C-4 and is then
> >needed to stay warm , desptie Navy tests to the contrary, and those guys
> >generaly need extra weight.
> >
> >           I use nothing next to my skin other than the Thinsulate , and
> >nothing on top of that.


I think I have heard this before, why do extra layers of insulation
"defeat" the C-4? 

I have wondered, when reading posts about weighting, whether I use too much
weight (apart from any extra that I may need because of wearing unnecessary
undergarments). I have a shell dry-suit, 5 lb steel backplate, 5lb negative
cannister light and double steel Faber 70s (10 liter - 200bar) - with that
I need 8-12 lb extra weight, depending on salt/fresh water, in the form of
V-, P- and H-weights (an H-weight was described recently on this list). All
that can not possibly come from some extra underware under the Thinsulate. 

Is it because Faber tanks are lighter than most (all?) other steel tanks or
am I still over weighted do you think? When steel tanks are mentioned on
here I suppose people are refering to the Pressed Steels which I know are
much heavier - here in Sweden they only sell Faber. I have tried how much
weight I need in shallow water to keep me down with near empty tanks and
wing and I have been graduly adding weight because I have found I need it.
I am very slim, so definately not the "floating type", if that makes any
difference. 

Any ideas much appreciated,

Dan Ocklind




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