In speaking to Eric at Sartek, he states that the electronics are fully encased
in insulating chemicals and therefore shielded from water completely.  They call
this podding.  In fact to reach the electronics one would have to saw through
this podding material.  As a result, even if the exterior casing is breached, no
water would reach the unit.  Voltage in the bulb assemble is not a risk factor.

Will, you may be correct in your understanding of the electronics of this unit
but are in error as to your understanding of its design and built in safeguards.

Regards,  Denis

kirvine@sa*.ne* wrote:

> Will, I believe you, but as you know from knowing me, I do not care what
> the risk is to normal people if it gets the job done. If it can stop my
> heart in the water, it is a great light in my opinion, since it sure
> could not do it on the bench when I jumped it to find out how bad it
> would feel. It jumps right through rubber 1/16 inch thick - quite a
> suprise. I can't tell you how many times I have had that happen to me
> fooling around with my car's engine, and even worse with the airboat on
> a wet day.
>
> Trust me, if I get bitten by a snake in the jungle, I have no problem
> holding my 50,000 volt stun gun right to the spot and holding the hammer
> down - in fact, I like it. You better practice it because sooner or
> later it is going to happen, and you need to do it without reservation.
>
> We have to get the lights to go ridiculous times, and we need to see
> down passages without actually going in them to save time way out there.
> We used to just use the nicads lights and a second light, but they
> finally got outdistanced.
>
> Besides, stopping the heart is no big deal since it starts right up
> again - that I found out also.
>
> William M. Smithers wrote:
> >
> > On Mon, 27 Sep 1999 kirvine@sa*.ne* wrote:
> >
> > > 7) there are no circuits or fuses in the light canister to fail ( the
> > > hid versions have a circuit in the head, but we carry replacement slugs
> > > with those)
> > >
> >
> > George, you're forgetting something (maybe you didn't know):
> > the ballast on those HID lights puts out enough voltage,
> > particularly on start-up, to stop any human being's heart
> > stone dead if you should happen to have a tube integrity
> > problem.  In fact, the reason the ballast is up at the
> > light head is that Carl Saiva realized that he didn't
> > want thousands of volts going through a wire in WATER.
> > Unfortunately, that doesn't cover you for a ballast or light
> > head flood.  What Sartek won't tell you is that you're
> > basically climbing into the bathtub with a hair dryer,
> > and hoping the cord and sandwich baggie stay dry.
> >
> > That's no shit - I love the color those HID's put out,
> > and they're very efficient, battery-wise, but it's still
> > scary stuff.  I'm speaking as an E.E. here.  Ask Bill Mee to
> > take a serious look at these things if you think I'm full
> > of shit.
> >
> > -Will
> >
> >
> > > 8) there are no crappy connectors in the light
> > >
> > > 9) the cord runs through the lid with a proper compression fitting, and
> > > not some plastic insanity ( like the hood) or other insecure arrangement
> > > that would allow the cord to slide and hence leak
> > >
> > > 10) the other end of the cord is equally secure
> > >
> > > 11) the slug fits exactly to the head
> > >
> > > 12) the head has exactly the correct reflector ( which is replaceable)
> > > for the perfect focus
> > >
> > > 13) the batteries plug in with no moving wires by putting the lid on in
> > > the correct oreintation
> > >
> > > 14) the pivot point is selectable for the belt loop
> > >
> > > 15) the o-rings are surface blowouts only , no embedded stupidity
> > >
> > > 16) there are other wiring issues in the head, but we will skip that for
> > > now
> > >
> > > 17) the overall lngth of even the nicad version of my lights is shorter
> > > than anything made elasewhere for the same power, and hence fits more
> > > easily along the side of the diver with no discomfort or clustery
> > >
> > > 18) only a braindead stroke would buy some has-been verion of nothing
> > > made by noboyd  when the real thing is available from the pros.
> > >
> > > 19) you are a known rookie at this, and your attraction to this light
> > > alone makes it suspect.
> > >
> > > 20) I have more, but I will let somebodly else finish this one off for
> > > real.
> > >
> > > Kuiper, Greg wrote:
> > > >
> > > > George Irvine,
> > > > By all means tell me why you think the Ralph Hood light is a pathetic
> > > > compromise for the real thing.  Also are saying that if it isn't made
> > > > by Barry Miller then it is not sufficient?  If this is not the case
> > > > then what other light brands do you recommend.
> > > >
> > > > Greg Kuiper
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: kirvine@sa*.ne* [mailto:kirvine@sa*.ne*]
> > > > Sent: Saturday, September 25, 1999 9:28 AM
> > > > To: Kuiper, Greg
> > > > Cc: 'Elly & Matt'; techdiver@aquanaut.com
> > > > Subject: Re: Ralph Hood - Cannister Lights
> > > >
> > > > Greg, like your Pelican backup light ( an oxymoron in this case) , the
> > > >
> > > > Hood light is a pathetic compromise for the real thing.
> > > >
> > > > Do you want to know why, or do you just want to stay in the dark.
> > > >
> > > > Let me know .
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
> > > Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
> > >
>
> --
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