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Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1999 11:12:12 -0400
From: Katherine Irvine <kirvine@sa*.ne*>
Organization: DIR
To: Big Mouth <bigvon@be*.ne*>
CC: techdiver@aquanaut.com
Subject: Re: Modified DIR-Ocean
IDIOT - you are soooooooo stupid. WHAT is  "duck" tape ? Is this for
taping ducks? You are one seriously lame "duck" yourself. I thought you
said you were a lawyer - who are you kidding. You sound like one more
half wit dive instructor who needs "duck" tape for his mouth .

 The D U C T tape on our bottles tells those carrying them where to put
them, like "3500 feet" , contains information as to whether the bottle
is a safety or a stage, whether it is a drive bottle or a stage, whether
it goes to the habitat at 30 feet even though it is a bottom gas bottle
( for breaks) whether it goes to the 50 foot trough as an extra 70  foot
bottle for open  circuit deco , whether it is a spare 190 bottle, a rb
drive deco 240 bottle , etc..etc.. 

 You want to screw with me ? You already look like a complete dope, but
keep it up. If I were not walking the walk, I would not be talking the
talk. I might also add that I do not get involved in the magazine
articles, films or stories, and have no control over the misprints,
miscues, pictures from other times and players, etc.

 I will refer you to my track record, however - that is crystal clear.


bigmouthvon@be*.ne* wrote:
> 
> George,
> 
> Don't get upset as I am stating for the record  your tank marking scheme when
used
> is the most sensible. Furthermore stage markings should be mandatory.
> 
> But check out page 35 of the new Advanced Diver magazine. According to the
caption
> under the picture a stage bottle used on your record setting traverse dive
has the
> MOD labeled with duck tape. Is this an accepted practice?
> 
> Also in Immersed the stage bottle you are referring to on page 28 is also not
marked
> in any apparent obvious way.  What's the deal?
> 
> Katherine Irvine wrote:
> 
> > Jeff, anyone "with a grade school education" would know what the
> > buoyancy characteristics of aluminum bottles is. IF that genius were
> > using steel bottles, then he might was well try to balance these anchors
> > out by putting them on either side since he is already missing the boat
> > anyway.
> >
> > You try swimimng with me some time, big shot, in a current with your
> > bottles on either side falping ih the breeze, and let's see what
> > happens. The fact is they present less total drag when held together and
> > not moving, and the fact is that even if they have the heavier deco gas
> > in them, the light is on the other side anyway.
> >
> > Let's see, Mr. Grade School education. The normal canister light in salt
> > water is 6 pounds negative. That is on the right side.  Two full 80's of
> > air or nitrox in salt water are what, big time? Could it be -6? What if
> > they have 50% helium?
> >
> > The problem is that you guys don't do jack for diving, and when you do
> > it is a cluster and a joke. You have not tried anything that is proven
> > by the pros to work, yet you have assinine comments like the crap you
> > wrote below full of condecension when in fact you should be embarrased
> > to be this publicly stupid.
> >
> >
> > Jeff Waugh wrote:
> > >
> > > You are correct! It is MUCH more balanced when NOT scootering. Anyone
with a
> > > grade school education knows that if you put a 20 lb. weight on one side
of a
> > > scale and a 10 lb. weight on the other, .............well, you can figure
out
> > > the rest! It does not interfere with the light. Put a D-ring on the
outside of
> > > your canister and your bottle attaches like normal. The long hose is
placed
> > > under the waist strap of your back plate harness. (Note: This affords MUCH
> > > quicker deployment of the hose than being wrapped under the light!) See,
there
> > > are other RIGHT ways of doing things! Don't believe everything that is
being
> > > "Preached" on this list. Stand up and be an individual who tries different
> > > things to find out what works best before you just do what you are
> > > "Programmed" to do by the all mighty elite one!
> > >
> > > Guy Wittig wrote:
> > >
> > > > George
> > > >
> > > > Just to fuel the flames - would you mount both stages on one side when
you
> > > > are not using a scooter ?
> > > >
> > > > It seems that you would be better balanced (bouyancy and drag) with
> > > > bilateral stages (if it were not for the scooter).
> > > >
> > > > Or does it interfere with the light canister and the long hose ?
> > > >
> > > > Guy
> > > >
> > > > > Steel tanks
> > > > >> Let me say right off the bat that while I understand DIR uses
aluminum
> > > > >> tanks (and a weight belt), that is just not sufficient gas for a
> > > > >> swimming deep gas dive with a sufficient reserve. Maybe a 10 or 15
> > > > >> minute bounce dive, but our bottom times are routinely 20 to 30
> > > > >> minutes at 200 to 350'.  A scooter could change this but most are not
> > > > >> scootering.
> > > > >> Double steel with aluminum back plate (light) and aluminum stages are
> > > > >> needed.
> > > > >> With this weight comes the need for redundant lift. (Here comes the
> > > > >> flames)
> > > > >> Two separate Halcyon or Diverite wings with a wet suit, or only one
> > > > >> with a dry suit.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Decompression stress
> > > > >> In order to provide the maximum safety margin while using high ppo2
> > > > >> deco mixes (with breaks of course) and to ease diver exertion on deco
> > > > >> a Jon Line is essential.
> > > > >> The best option, if available, would be to arrange a free floating
> > > > >> deco line before hand. But if this is not available a Jon Line is an
> > > > >> efficient tool.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Spare Mask
> > > > >> Since the ocean has no floor or ceiling like a cave, a spare mask is
> > > > >> essential.
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Flame away fella's!!!
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Bill
> > > > >>
> > > > >> PS.  I would be interested in hearing from any other ocean divers who
> > > > >> have any suggestions, as there is always room for improvement.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >--
> > > > >Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
> > > > >Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to
`techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
> > > >
> > > > --
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> >
> > --
> > Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
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