Mailing List Archive Mailing List Archive
With reference to Kent's rig, I'd agree, nothing much changes from the normal rig. The one change I make is more with procedure than configuration. If the water is cold then you can assume that the diver is using warmer, thicker underclothing than normal. In UK waters a lot of divers tend towards thick neoprene drysuits. All this can restrict movement which might make reaching valves harder. Add to this the loss of dexterity and hand strength that cold brings, and the fact that cold water divers are at a higher risk of freeflowing regs and it could all end up going horribly wrong when trying to shut valves down. My technique is to leave the isolator on the manifold closed, so that I'm effectively diving with independant tanks. If I have a freeflow, etc., I'm not under the same pressure to do something about it. If I reach my valves then great, but if I don't then it's not a problem, I still have half of my gas safe. During the dive, I breath off about 30bar (400-500psi), crack open the isolator, let the tanks equalize, then close it again. I keep doing this until I reach thirds. I'd rather manipulate the valves when I'm calm and not under pressure than in a life threatening situation; it reassures me that I can actually use the manifold and keeps me in practice; and it takes away one more thing to worry about, especially when diving alone or in tight caves. If I forget to equalize then all that is going to happen is that I hit thirds sooner than I would expect to. I can equalize on the fly without having to stop what I'm doing too. The downside is: you MUST have the pressure gauge on the side of the manifold you are actually breathing from. Also, rapid equalising can cause condensation inside the donor tank but if you are keeping up the oxygen service rating on your tanks then the annual inspection will catch it. A couple of other things. I like to use climbing karabiners on my stage tanks because they are big and easy to use with cold hands. Some electrical tape can be used to stop them rotating (they can rotate so that the gate opening is in an unreachable position). Some people say that they are an entanglment risk because they open and close so easily, but like my cave instructor once told me, you shouldn't be close enough to get tangled in the first place. Don't use the locking type, in salt water they can lock up permanently. Rather than a knife, I use shears. With thick gloves they are easier to use if you get the small, spring loaded gardening type than a knife is. They will also cut through a hell of a lot more stuff. Plus they are dirt cheap. Final thing, watch what kind of hoses you get, because some can become very stiff in cold climates. Regards, Stuart. ---------- > From: boubker_badr@ds*.co* > To: techdiver@aquanaut.com > Subject: Help on open water configuration > Date: Friday, April 16, 1999 9:24 AM > > > Hello all, > I am new to this list. > I dive mainlly in cold water (wet suit) and in tropical water with a single > tank. > > I am new to the Hogarthian principle, but I like it very much. > > Can some one email me a good Hogarthian configuration for "cold water open > water diving" (that they have tested of course)? > The only information I have found on the web is for "cave diving". > > Thanks for the help and sorry if its not the right list to ask for ;-) > > Boubker. > > > -- > Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. > Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'. -- Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
Navigate by Author:
[Previous]
[Next]
[Author Search Index]
Navigate by Subject:
[Previous]
[Next]
[Subject Search Index]
[Send Reply] [Send Message with New Topic]
[Search Selection] [Mailing List Home] [Home]