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Try Jims Trimix site http://www.cisatlantic.com/trimix/vweight/vweight.htm More McCormack Cadgraphics Division Manager National Reprographics (212) 366-7139 http://www.nrinet.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Bruce Stewart [mailto:bruce@tr*.co*] > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 4:24 PM > To: dave.robbins@ba*.co*.uk* > Cc: techdiver@aquanaut.com > Subject: Re: V Weights > > > Hi Dave, > > been there done that, last year I think it was I tried to make some "V" > weights and tried the sand and foil in a box but it failed > hopelessly, there > is proper casting sand thats able to be compacted and not hold moisture > (much) and sand casting is possible but not worth it. > > I eventually made a mould out off 3mm flat bar which I welded (3 pieces) > side by side to make a "V" shape then capped the ends of the > mould with the > same stuff. > > Noting the end caps are not at 90 degrees to the botom of the > mould I layed > them slightly out so the "V" weight would release with the thump of a > hammer. > > A better way would be to get some 3mm sheet and get it folded at a local > sheet metal shop into the desired shape and then weld the end > caps on, I had > alot of grinding to do when I welded 3 strips parralell so folding the "V" > is alot easier. > > There should not be any cavities inside the mould as the lead will not > release easily. > > I made a pot for melting the lead out off a piece of RHS 50mm x 100mm x > 300mm tall and welded a cap on 1 end and a long handle on the > side. Then put > it between 2 bricks and the OXY underneath it (cutting tip) and dropped in > the ammount of weight I wanted, waited till it melted and poured > it into the > mould. > > Before I did this I cut some S/S 316 strip about 25mm wide x > 500mm long and > bent it so it layed in the mould and when the lead was poured it > would trapp > the S/S strip, this was done so the lead could be moved up and > down between > the tanks so dive trim could be adjusted just right. I used the band bolts > to hold the strip in place. > > It might be a good idea to pre drill the strip with holes every > 15mm or so. > > When the right position was found I cut off the extra strip, "Bingo" a "V" > that can't be seen unless you peer between the tanks and trimmed > just right. > By removing the back plate the weight is easily changed. > > Warning, be carefull heating and melting lead and pouring it, always wears > eye protection, gloves and full covering as moulten metal is very > unforgiving, there must be "NO" moisture in the mould or melting pot. > > Do it all outside and away from valuables and don't breath the > fumes of the > melting lead or any of it for that matter. Good luck. > > Bruce Stewart > > TR > dave.robbins@ba*.co*.uk* wrote: > > > I would like to make a V weight for my double 10s set. > > Is there a home-brew method for doing this ? > > I have old moulded weights that I can melt down - but at a loss > > how to > > make a mould - sand ? > > > > Sorry if this is trivial - but I don't want to end up with a lead > > dog-turd > > regards, > > Dave. > > > > * mailto:dave.robbins@ba*.co*.uk* > > > > Dave. > > > > -- > > Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. > > Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'. > > -- > Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. > Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'. > -- Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
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