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From: "Randy Bohrer" <underwaterapplications@cs*.co*>
To: "Techdiver" <techdiver@aquanaut.com>
Subject: Bridge II battery replacement
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 11:44:49 -0500
Dave Mabry wrote:

I've just gotten back a Bridge II computer from Dive Rite for a battery
replacement.  Over the years Dive Rite has done this for no charge, andthat
was
very good and generous support from that company.  Dive Ritehas always been
the
tops at product support, IMHO.However, they are now instituting a policy of
charging $25 for thisservice, which is also a fair policy I think.  But, I
would
like to beable to change the batteries myself.  I have been told by someone
at
DRsome time ago that the actual changing of the battery is not
verycomplicated,
but there is a special procedure that must be done on firstpower-up with the
new
battery to insure that the computer initializesproperly.Does anyone know
what
this procedure is?  It shouldn't be too difficultto change the battery if
you
have the o-ring should it need to bereplaced and the procedure to initialize
the
computer.I would appreciate it if anyone has this procedure (maybe even Dive
Ritecould publish it now that they are charging for the service), pleasepass
it
along.Thanks for any help.  Take care.-- Dave Mabry
dmabry@mi*.co*
Dossin Museum Underwater Research TeamNACD #2093            NSS #42872





You should consider the $25 charge as "insurance". The battery is located in
the same compartment as the electronics for the unit. If you change the
battery yourself and the unit floods, you are S.O.L. If Dive Rite changes it
and it floods, you get another Bridge computer. The battery change procedure
involves opening the case, replacing the battery and o-ring, shorting the
reset terminal to logic ground (with metal tweezers) to reset the memory,
reseal the case torquing the screws properly. This assembly work must be
done in a low humidity environment (air conditioned low-dust room is
acceptable). Then the unit is checked for proper function and pressure
tested in water. If it is not obviously flooded, it is then heated slightly
(about 20 degrees or so over ambient) and observed for condensation on the
display lens. If there is no condensation (fog), then the watertightness is
verified.

A good reason to want to do this yourself is convenience and time; a bad
reason is to save the 25 bucks.

I hope this helps!
C. Randy Bohrer, President
Underwater Applications Corp
http://www.geocities.com/~uwapplications

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