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Dive Lights? Argon bottles? First of all I see a continuous stream of ignorance and stupidity emanating from one fake Yahoo account regarding dive gear. Apparently this "pro" lost its argon bottle. Dumb ass, try plugging it in. In the kind of cave diving we do, we put the argon bottle on the left side on the tank, and this has been explained ad infinitum on our web page, WKPP.ORG. Being primarily a wreck diver myself, I also have other versions of this arrangement. All of the tank mounts use outside velcro straps for detachment if stuck, or if keyed in a cave. The bottle can be moved inward towards the body , like I do it, upside down at the lowest point possible on the tanks to reduce drag when scootering or in a current. Many dopes think this will interfere with stages - it does not - I know, I occasionally do a tiny bit of stage diving. A smaller bottle can obviously be used for wreck diving. The other wreck method I use is to slide the smaller ( or even the normal 15 cu ft 2015 Luxfer) bottle onto the waist strap on the left side, over the buckle and d ring to the back, where a small piece of very light bungee holds it back against the backplate ( not essential, since your pressure guage will keep it in place). The bottle is still upside down, and its hose goes under the waist strap as usual. The bottle is rigged with a large sewn loop, a larger version of what is on the light so it will slide over the d ring and buckle, and thus can be both removed and added without messing up your standard proper harnessm, just like the light on the opposite side - se Cobb's post. LIGHTS ========> The wreck version of the light is much smaller. You can certainly use the full sized light, and the extra 7 pounds of removeable negative buoyancy is a nice feature, but you can go to the small one made by both AUL and Barry Miller. Miller also has both size lights made in unbreakable welded plastic. The small light can accommodate either nicad batteries or lead acid. I have both. Lights need to be such that the bulb can be changed in seconds, as the most likely time for it to blow is when it first gets turned on against a fully charged battery. This is especially true of nicads, which accept an overcharge that is in excess of the ratings of the bulbs. Bright is achieved by higher color temperature. I use nicad scooters and lights, my batteries are Japanese Robot batteries, so don't even get started on me about batteries. I know what I am talking about. Have a bulb and test tubes at hand if you dive nicad, or dive on a boat in rough water. Dive lights must be focusable as they are used for signalling, even in open water. If you see a stroke with a sealed beam head, or one of those weenie heads with the reflector as part of the bulb assembly, I think these pieces of shit are called "MR" bulbs, DO NOT DIVE with that person. They are telling you that they are so ignorant, so stupid, and so lacking in any clue as to being a good buddy, that you need to avoid them. This is called the "Tip of the Stroke" Theory - sometimes you can only see the tip of the stroke, a small piece of the stroke evidence, meaning that the horrendous degree of abject stupidity, ignornace, and personal preference is hidden below the surface, and will sink you like the Titanic if you dive with them. As Cobb points out, only the worst retrograde moron would use a twist on light head, a sealed head, or a switch at the handle, for very obvious electrical and logistic reasons, too obvious to even discuss here - check rec.scuba, where the kind of crap being recommended here by the big mouthed fake Yahoo account is the standard fare. You can not fix stupid, but you sure can give ignorance a shot. I just can not believe the level of ignorance and stupidity on this list, and the degree to which the most ignorant and stupid will rush out and prove it. No wonder there are so many accidents. -- Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
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