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Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 17:43:16 -0700
From: "Peter A. Sale" <psale@ib*.ne*>
Organization: Midtown Edit
To: techdiver@aquanaut.com
CC: "George M. Irvine III" <gmirvine@sa*.ne*>,
     Glen Hunt
Subject: Re: Boyancy for steel 95 vs. Alum 80
According to 17 techdivers, sea water is 64.3 lbs per cubic foot or
0.03721 lbs per cubic inch.  This is all I need to calculate how
negative AUL's Video light canisters will be.  Thanks to all who
responded.

George and Glen raised issues related to diving with a lot of heavy gear
(e.g., video & 40 lbs of lights) that I had completely overlooked.  I've
taking the liberty of including trimmed down versions of the issues 
they each raised.  

-- 
Regards,

Peter A. Sale
Midtown Edit
Los Angeles CA USA

G. Irvine wrote:
> 
> Pete, it is not a good idea to depend on auxiliary equipment for your
> weighting.  If you loose a light and need to deco, you are out of luck. I
> would try the whole arrangement in a swimming pool to see what you need
> to stay up and down.  Fresh is 62.4, salt is usually about 3% more. I
> personally would incorporate the amount of weight necessary to offset
> the drysuit into the backplane, and then have a weight belt for when the
> tank gets lighter.
> 

Glen Hunt wrote:

1) You take your camera setup on the first dive, and you are neutrally
buoyant.  You decide against taking it on the second.  What are you
going to do for ballast to make up the difference?

2) You are neutrally buoyant with the camera.  Think about the weight
distribution.  A weight belt trying to pull you down at the waist, a bc
lifting up at your thorax, a 3aa 95.1 tank (full: -6lbs/empty: +1lb)
weighing you down at your thorax, and a camera pulling down in front of
you.  If you want to have a nice dive, try to get that weight
distributed
so you won't be pulled down in front or in back.  (what I like to do is
slide my tank up or down on the bc to make this adjustment.  it doesn't
take much, only an inch or two either way.)

3) You get your weighting and weight distribution perfect, then you 
drop the camera.  Will you be able to make adjustments on the fly?
Personally, I like to find a happy medium between "with" and 
"without," trimwise.  that way, less compensation is necessary 
when I need to set the gear down or when I drop it.

A suggestion might be to first dive the camera on your familiar config. 
You can more accurately nail down what the camera does to your
weighting, trim, and dive in general.  Then, dive your new config
without the camera, becoming familiar the new demands.  Nail that 
down.  And finally, after you've got a pretty good feel for this, 
combine the new config and the camera.
-- 
Regards,

Peter A. Sale
Midtown Edit
Los Angeles CA USA
--
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