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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 1997 16:46:09 -0900
From: Kent Lind <klind@Al*.NE*>
To: techdiver@aquanaut.com, wreckdiver@wr*.co*
CC: andrew.cohen@no*.go*
Subject: Alaska diving (was lunatics)
Andrew Cohen wrote:
> 
>      Which reminds me, Kent, I am going to spend October in Sitka. Know of
>      any good extended range (or otherwise interesting dives) there?
>      Andy Cohen
> 

Andy, I'll respond back to the lists in case any of the rest of you are
interested in Alaska diving.

First, the conditions and habitat in Southeast Alaska are quite similar
to what you will encounter in British Columbia or Puget Sound, although
water will be a bit cooler.  Perhaps 45-50 degrees in the summer and
29-38 in the winter.  However,  unlike Puget Sound and British Columbia,
no real dive-tourism infrastructure exists in Alaska.  That is not to
say that there are no dive shops, simply that the shops are just
oriented to local sport divers and commercial (urchin and abalone)
divers.  There are no liveaboards working in Alaska and I don't know of
any dive charter boats dedicated to just diving.

Consequently, the way to dive Alaska is to hook up with local divers in
advance.  Most local divers own their own boats (or have a dive buddy
who owns a boat) so there is no local market for charter operations. 
And most tourists tend to want to fish, watch whales or sea kayak rather
than dive.  Like anywhere else in the world, the best place to find
divers is through the local dive shop.  If you are in any town with a
dive shop, you will have no trouble finding folks to dive with, but they
are unlikely to be techie types.

It is possible to hire a sportfishing charter boat to do a dive
charter.  There are hundreds of little sportfishing charter boats in
Alaska.  But, you will have to have a divemaster with you or hire one to
be legal.  And, the skipper may not really have a clue about where to
take you or how to run a boat with divers in the water.  So, you've got
to know exactly where you want to go and you'll probably have to do all
the staging of deco tanks etc. yourself.  I don't really recommend this
unless you really know the waters well yourself.

Now, for Sitka.  I've only been there briefly and only got in a couple
of shore dives.  In SE Alaska you will generally find that the closer
you are to the open Pacific the better the vis gets better and the
marine life gets more varied and dense.  I've dove along the Pacific
shore of Yakobi Island about 100 miles north of Sitka and the visibility
was better than 100'.  Best diving I've done anywhere in the world
including Belize, Costa Rica and Brazil.  When you get into the inside
waters of SE Alaska, the vis is usually much worse due to all the
glacial silt and freshwater runoff.  Did a dive in Glacier Bay once, the
vis was about 6 inches.  In Juneau it ranges from around 10-60'
depending on the season, winter is better.

Sitka Sound faces the open Pacific and is the surrounding waters have
fabulous sport diving.  I don't know if there are any good wrecks near
Sitka (there are several excellent wrecks near Juneau in 100-200' of
water by the way).  But the continental shelf drops off to about 1000
fathoms in front of Sitka Sound so you can certainly do extended range
diving.  However, you will find that most of the divers around Sitka are
your basic single tank sport divers who stick within sport diving limits
and mostly obsess with collecting king crab, abalone and other seafood. 
There is one decent dive shop in Sitka with with rental equipment.  I
think they only have air, not nitrox or other mixed gas.  You are
unlikely to find anything but single AL80s and steel 72s for rent, and
finding rental tanks with DIN valves will be tough.  They do rent DUI
CF200 drysuits though, so you can get a decent drysuit if you need one.

The sea otters are re-populating the SE Alaska coast and they are
cleaning out all the urchins.  That means the bull kelp is coming back
in force.  You will now find some of the worlds best kelp diving along
the Alaska coast.  If you are playing tourist in Alaska, that is the
sort of diving I'd recommend doing.  There isn't all that much to see
once you drop below about 150', it just gets darker and more barren.  I
believe the Abalone season is in October so most of the divers in Sitka
could be out working the beds and it may be difficult to find a partner
unless you're willing to go help pry abalone off rocks.  

The only divers I know about who are doing any extended range stuff on
the outer coast are some of the state and federal fisheries biologists
who are doing stock assessments and survey work. It's probably mostly
state biologists now as I think NOAA is mostly using the mini-sub to do
extended range work.  Email me privately and I'll give you some
contacts.

I have heard that there is a dive shop in Craig Alaska (on Prince of
Whales Island near the BC border) that has installed simple hotel rooms
for visiting divers and has a mixed gas operation going.  I think they
do tours on their own dive boat.  They are the only operation I know of
that is making a stab at the dive tourism market.  But, Craig is remote
and difficult to get to.  For example, it's cheaper and faster for me to
fly from Juneau to Seattle than it is to fly from Juneau to Craig and it
would be a 36 hour trip one-way from Juneau on the ferry.  I have not
been there so I can't comment on the operation but the diving around
Craig is reported to be spectacular.  They also have some fairly
unexplored caves if you want to try cave diving in 40 degree water.  

There are also dive shops in Ketchikan and 2 in Juneau.  Here is a list
of the shops that I know about in SE Alaska.  There are also a couple
shops in Anchorage but don't bother with diving up there, they have
massive tides and mostly shallow mud flats.  If anyone wants to know
about wreck diving around Juneau, give me a private email.

Regards, 
----------------------------------------
Kent Lind          klind@al*.ne* (or)
Juneau, Alaska     kent.lind@no*.go*
----------------------------------------

SOUTHEAST ALASKA DIVE SHOPS
Alaska Diving Service
Ketchikan, Alaska
907-225-4667

Craig's Dive Center
Craig, Alaska
800-380-3483

Southeast Diving and Sports
Sitka, Alaska
907-747-8279

Channel Dive Center
Juneau, Alaska
907-586-3666

The Scuba Tank
Juneau, Alaska
907-789-5115
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