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john.r.strohm@BI*.co* wrote:
> 
> After a brief discussion with JJ, I recently bought a Princeton
> Tec-40, to evaluate it and see how well I liked it.  (This was before
> the very recent announcement of the WKPP backup light.)  The idea was
> that if I liked it, I would buy a second one.
> 
> Well, the very first time I had the light in water, at max 15 ffw in a
> pool at that, I flooded it.  To make it worse, I didn't notice
> immediately that I'd done it, and the chlorine ate the reflector.
> 
> I wrote Princeton a letter, asking about prices for replacement parts
> (I assumed it was my fault), and asking them how to avoid the problem
> down the road.  Princeton replaced the light.  No charge.

I had a similar experience with an Ikelite Mini-C but at greater depth,
and it flooded twice (the second time seriously), at 95ffw and 145fsw. 
I reported it on rec.scuba (three years ago) and "Ike" of Ikelite was
reading the list and asked for my mailing address; he shipped out a new
one.  After some discussion of "why/how/etc" I learned the difference
between the captive or "slip" O-rings (as in the larger Pelican lights;
you do NOT want to overtighten them) and the simple "compression"
O-rings as in the Mini-C (where you want to torque it down for maximum
benefit).  Needless to say, those were in my younger and dumber days;
but in the event anyone else out there hasn't figured it out yet it may
save you some trouble.  

Incidentally, after some effort and contact cleaning with some fine-grit
sandpaper, the "flooded" Mini-C can be coaxed into working again, though
not reliably (the contacts are bent and loose, and the switch mechanism
has very close tolerance) but usable around the house.  The replacement
has survived 197fsw with no problems to date (similar luck with a King
Pelican).  I don't cave dive, so no experience with the "serious" lights
to report.

Jeff Kell <jeff-kell@ut*.ed*>

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