I've been exceedingly busy, so I'm a day late on this response, but
     here goes.
     John writes:

     >What do you mean with solid core: single strand center conductor,
     >incompressible coax ?

     see below

     George writes:
     >David , solid core is a common thing, but unnecessary. Plastic
     >creeps, and it will soon loosen around the compression fitting.

     After a couple of private message, it seems I chose confusing
     terms...I was referring to the insulation around the conductors when I
     said "solid core".  The AUL light I got this summer has two conductors
     with plastic insulation around each one with paper or something
     in-between.  That is encased with the yellow outside wrap, plastic I
     think.  If water gets into either part of the light (head, cable,
     canister) water or vapor will make it's way to the rest of the light.
     This messes up my switch and requires everything (including the inside
     of the cable) be completely dried, which is not possible on many of my
     charters in the middle of BFE w/no electric oven.  The cable I prefer
     has one insulation component (incompressible rubber preferred) that is
     formed around the conductors.  Thus the cable insulation is a solid
     core of material, not layered like most cables you see in see house
     wiring.  The conductor is stranded, not solid core, which is what I
     think folks thought I was referring to being solid core.  Sorry for
     any confusion.


     >Why do you think Bill Gavin designed the lights the way he did, and
     >why do you think we , who could buy or make anything we want, use
     >them?

     I don't know anything about the particulars of your lights or Gavin
     lights other than they're supposed to be good.  As another engineer,
     I'd be intrigued to see the solutions he's developed. Tripod led me to
     believe the AUL light I got last summer was what was used by the those
     who know. As you say below, you don't know how Arnold made my light.
     It seems it is not as good as yours, and the ideas I relayed would
     make it better and probably much closer to yours. I realize you're
     being a little restrained in your response, which we all appreciate,
     but why are you jumping my case when you don't know what the rest of
     us have to put with for lights?

     >Do you think maybe we are just plain stupid, or is there a tiny ,
     >remote, itsy bitsy little miniscule chance that we just might know
     >what we are doing. No, impossible - you keep dispensing advice.
     >Arnold makes our lights the way we want them, I don't know how he
     >does anyone elses. We also make our own, which are 1000% superior to
     >anything on the market.

     No comment, sarcastic or otherwise, was made by me about you/your
     lights except can the rest of us buy them or at least have the specs
     so we may benefit from your school of hard knocks?  My advice is "as
     is where is" just like yours. Flame it and stick it in the round file
     if you want. Like you, I won't pass my opinions thru anyone's godly
     gate before posting to a public list so don't try to shut me up.

     >I use a rubber=coated two-wire
     >assembly with the correctly matched o-ring . It will not slip, leak,
     >creep, or break the wires. I cut it to the exact length I need, and
     >change it in five minutes if necessary.

     Cool, I'd like to see it.  I don't think the particulars were in the
     gear video.  Oh yeah, when my wife saw the plain label "Doing it
     Right" and saw a near naked man come on the screen with a deep low
     voice, she thought you were a porn star with bondage equipment getting
     ready to "do it right"!  Aqua Corp was on the table...So how 'bout it
     G, you doing something on the side for AC?

     >Maybe you can explain to us where the pressure is exerted in a
     >screw-on lid, and why you think that is better, especilly when the
     >o-ring has no grove (oops, gave it >away). - G

     I hope you still have your humor about you while you read this...  I
     really have no argument with you except jumping my case. If Dive Rite
     can't make a decent seal for their new canister, then piss on 'em
     twice as hard.  The didn't have the o-rings for the new cases on the
     units I looked at so I won't comment. The multiple canisters for more
     powerful design is instantly suspect given the multiple failure points
     of all those o-rings.  However, a good seal on a single canister light
     would make at least consider there light. They do seem to be on a
     better trail than before though.  It was fun to read them dumping on
     their own light.  The little flier that reads something like 'these
     days, with divers going deeper, our past square product is admittedly
     a piece of compost that won't even keep your butt warm'

     I just feel for everyone who spent good money on them. Just about
     every techdiver I know has tried to sell me a used D.R
     Nothing-but-leaks light.  The pitch is always, "this is a great deal I
     $800 for all this and you can get it for 1/2 that". After I push them
     for why the "deal", they admit they're trying to get enough money to
     buy an Arnold Jackson light.

     Regarding RT's message on me being uninitiated and leading others, I'd
     say MOST of us are uninitiated to the details of WKPP equipment like
     the light and scooter design.  If you've got good info to share, then
     lead by sharing it and beat all us know-nothings to the punch instead
     of whining.


     David Drake             EDS/SATURN Infrastructure 8-320-4190 on GMnet
     Spring Hill, TN  USA    Internet: saturn.ddrake05@gm*.co*

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