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--=====================_10870302==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 03:24 AM 7/09/2001 , Udo Rotmistrenko wrote: >Hallo guys; > >My drysuit is the Diving Concepts "Duraflex Pro", which has the same >ballistic cordura nylon shell as the DUI CLx450. I am expecting my >Halcyon pockets any day (actually : hour). Initially I wanted to send my >suit in to Diving Concepts for them to attach (they sew it in and >properly seal everything... if you see the suit from the inside, you'll >see that they are doing an excellent job with it.). The problem is that >I won't have the suit back for up to 2 months... that is unacceptable to >me. Last weekend, when MHK was so nice to correct my rig, he suggested >to attach the pockets myself, which sound easy to do if they are glued >on. > >The problem I see with this is that the cordura nylon is not a "flat" >material and I am not sure how the pockets would stick to it. Does >anybody has experience with attaching the pockets to that material? I've used the following adhesive to stick latex neck and wrist seals, kevlar knee-pads with coarse woven backs, and cordura and trilaminate pockets to trilaminate drysuits. It gives a tough, flexible bond: It's Bostik 2402 solvent-based adhesive, mixed with Bostik 9101 curing agent. I soaked and rinsed the drysuits first to get rid of any residual salt, and dried them properly. I used a toluene-based solvent to clean off & prep the surfaces before bonding (can't recall the product name/number, but it is Bostik's own solvent for the 2402 adhesive). I've since read that a mixture of Ethyl Acetate and trichloro-isocyanuric Acid (BOSTIK 2657), cleans the surfaces and prepares them for the glue better than toluene. I'll try 2657 in future. I followed the on-pack instructions for mixing the accelerator and applying the glue EXACTLY, you know - a thin coat to each surface, have a cup of tea, then whack 'em together and press 'till bonded. The latest set of latex seals have been solidly in place for over four years, same with the kneepads. The pockets have been in place 18 months or two years - they feel like they're on there for good - not so much as a corner or edge has lifted, but the whole glued area is nicely flexible. If you can't find the Bostik 2402 and 9101, other brands are Evode "Tivoli" 8000 or 3353 plus hardeners or Dunlop S2001 plus or S5000 plus hardener. I don't know about these other adhesives, but a drysuit/wetsuit zip manufacturer recommends them as alternatives to the Bostik 2402 / 9101 combination. Good luck. rgds billyw --=====================_10870302==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" <html> At 03:24 AM 7/09/2001 , Udo Rotmistrenko wrote:<br> <blockquote type=cite cite>Hallo guys;<br> <br> My drysuit is the Diving Concepts "Duraflex Pro", which has the same<br> ballistic cordura nylon shell as the DUI CLx450. I am expecting my<br> Halcyon pockets any day (actually : hour). Initially I wanted to send my<br> suit in to Diving Concepts for them to attach (they sew it in and<br> properly seal everything... if you see the suit from the inside, you'll<br> see that they are doing an excellent job with it.). The problem is that<br> I won't have the suit back for up to 2 months... that is unacceptable to<br> me. Last weekend, when MHK was so nice to correct my rig, he suggested<br> to attach the pockets myself, which sound easy to do if they are glued<br> on.<br> <br> The problem I see with this is that the cordura nylon is not a "flat"<br> material and I am not sure how the pockets would stick to it. Does<br> anybody has experience with attaching the pockets to that material?</blockquote><br> I've used the following adhesive to stick latex neck and wrist<br> seals, kevlar knee-pads with coarse woven backs, and cordura <br> and trilaminate pockets to trilaminate drysuits. It gives a tough, <br> flexible bond:<br> <br> It's Bostik 2402 solvent-based adhesive, mixed with Bostik 9101 <br> curing agent.<br> <br> I soaked and rinsed the drysuits first to get rid of any residual <br> salt, and dried them properly.<br> <br> I used a toluene-based solvent to clean off & prep the surfaces<br> before bonding (can't recall the product name/number, but it is <br> Bostik's own solvent for the 2402 adhesive). I've since read that <br> a mixture of Ethyl Acetate and trichloro-isocyanuric Acid (BOSTIK <br> 2657), cleans the surfaces and prepares them for the glue better <br> than toluene. I'll try 2657 in future.<br> <br> I followed the on-pack instructions for mixing the accelerator<br> and applying the glue EXACTLY, you know - a thin coat to each surface, <br> have a cup of tea, then whack 'em together and press 'till bonded.<br> <br> The latest set of latex seals have been solidly in place for <br> over four years, same with the kneepads. The pockets have been in<br> place 18 months or two years - they feel like they're on there<br> for good - not so much as a corner or edge has lifted, but the whole<br> glued area is nicely flexible.<br> <br> If you can't find the Bostik 2402 and 9101, other brands are <br> Evode "Tivoli" 8000 or 3353 plus hardeners or Dunlop S2001 plus or <br> S5000 plus hardener.<br> <br> I don't know about these other adhesives, but a drysuit/wetsuit zip<br> manufacturer recommends them as alternatives to the Bostik 2402 / 9101<br> combination.<br> <br> Good luck. <br> <br> rgds billyw<br> <br> </html> --=====================_10870302==_.ALT-- -- Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
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