Dell, can you please explain to "all" members of this list why a test tube
from Dive Right cost around $30.00, when I showed you guys where to get them
custom made for less than $3.00 ea.  That's one hell of a mark-up if you ask
me.

Bruic


----- Original Message -----
From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
To: <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>;
<cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
Cc: <techdiver@aquanaut.com>; <cavers@ca*.co*>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord


> Depending on the test tube light design, there are a few ways to prevent
> lens loss.
> First, don't lubricate the o-rings, simply wet them (very lightly) when
> installing the lens. Lubrication makes them way too easy to pop off when
> hot, the pressure pushes them right of the end. The slight moisture will
dry
> quickly and never be seen again.
> Relieving the pressure while pressing the lens in place can be done in a
> couple of ways. If it has an easily loosened compression type sealing
gland
> on the cord, just back off the nut (not the gland itself, use two
wrenches)
> and wiggle the cord. This will allow air to escape out around the cord
while
> the lens is being pushed on. Once the lens is in place, re-tighten the nut
> on the gland. If the gland is not accessible, (or easily loosened), you
can
> "vacuum seal" the lens in place. Place the head on a flat surface and push
> the lens on till it loosely touches the first o-ring. Now turn the light
on
> for a few minutes. This will heat the lens and the head at the same time.
> Once it is nice and warm, turn the light off and grasp the lens with a
towel
> (or something of that nature) and push the lens in place. Once the whole
> assembly cools, it will be in a vacuum state. Naturally, the head material
> needs to be such that it can be burned for a short time out of the water
for
> this "vacuum" method.
> Aluminum and Delrin will have no problems with this. PVC or others would
be
> highly suspect.
> Any high quality glass lens will have no problems either. The o-rings can
> stand alot of heat as well.
>
> You should always pull a test tube style out of it's reflector before
using,
> just to check the seals. The lens can be hit in such a way that it cracks
> the lens at the base, (where the o-rings are), but still appears to be
just
> fine while still in the reflector because this area is hidden from view.
> Dell Motes
> Dive Rite
> 117 W.Washington St.
> Lake City, Florida 32055
> www.dive-rite.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Harris <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>
> To: 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*>
> Cc: techdiver@aquanaut.com <techdiver@aquanaut.com>; cavers@ca*.co*
> <cavers@ca*.co*>
> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:07 PM
> Subject: RE: AUL canister light / light cord
>
>
> >Chris,
> >I'm not sure about this as a solution.
> >Some friends and I were discussing non-wicking wire.
> >My (humble) opinion is that you need some way of transfering
> >air from the light head when you push the test tube on otherwise
> >the positive pressure will push it off.
> >
> >I have noticed that it is much easier to remove or replace the
> >test tube when the lid is off the cannister.
> >
> >r
> >Paul
> >
> >> Claudia,
> >>      When I replaced my electrical cord I peeled the
> >> insulation back from both ends (after cutting it to the right
> >> length), put a wad of aquaseal around the wires, then pulled
> >> the insulation back up. This will keep any water from getting
> >> through a nick in the insulation and into the canister which
> >> may be what's happening to yours.
> >> C.
> >
> >--
> >Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
> >Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
> >
>
>

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