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First the shirts were for fun, we thought they were funny and still do they
have nothing to do about endorsing anything except ones freedom to think and
discuss issues rather than blindly following someone

Errol made a comment about records i have had few I do not have any now.
Kevin Gurr lead the first expediation to the Brittianc amoung other
acheivements

Rick Stanton has done considerable exploration in Europe as gas other
members in the photo

Second there are multiple ways to set up configuration that are safe and
streamlined

Third my approach to training and equipment configuration is
First and foremost *****Think it through and see the logic behind what you
wish to do and understand it., Do not do something just because some one
says to.

Second is once you have thought it through then *****    do it correctly

From our text the technical encyclopedia

Differences of Opinion
If you are new to the sport of technical diving, you can expect to encounter
heated debates and widely differing opinions concerning every item and
aspect of equipment configuration. Your best course of action is to observe,
to examine various rigs with regards to the 20 points made previously, and
to determine which is the most comfortable for you and your needs.
Once you make your decision, ask for assistance setting up the components
you have selected. On the following pages, you will be able to look over a
variety of configurations preferred by respected members of the technical
diving community. Read these with an open mind. Then decide on either the
system or the portions of the system you wish to take advantage of.
Ultimately, it is your safety, your diving style and your preference for
what works for you that counts!


On those following pages are listed equipment configurations by several
divers including mine (Tom Mount) JJ, Lamar Hires and Kevin Gurr. Each
explains why they chose the config they did.

Below is mine, while it is Hogarth it definitely is not DIR per George
following mine is a section by JJ you will note a lot of similarity but some
quite different points as well. I think that if you read JJ's conclusion it
sums out how most of us feel "two things will undoubtedly remain constant:
there will always be new equipment for people to obsess over, and there will
always be people arguing over how that equipment should be configured. Your
response to these arguments should be based on your actual needs, and on the
requirements of your diving environment."
To that concluding statement I say AMEN

Tom Mount's Configuration

The author has arrived at this configuration to meet the demands of varied
diving environments. It has proven effective in many areas of the world and
on a variety of dive missions. It may be used with either hardpacks or
softpack technology.

? The doubles are manifolded together. If available, an isolator valve is
used.

? The regulators are placed so that all hoses extend vertically downward
from the valves. The long hose is on the right post and is the primary
regulator. This hose is wrapped under the wings and, when using my normal
waist light placement, underneath it, the hose is simply routed behind the
wings, across the body and a ¼ turn around the neck. When diving without a
light, the excess hose is tucked into the waist strap. The short hose is the
backup regulator. A permanently attached surgical loop is attached to the
backup regulator; this goes around the neck of the diver. This second stage
should be right at the base of the neck just below the chin.

? The SPG has a custom length of 24 inches (57.6 cm) and runs down from the
regulator on the left post. It is attached to the left shoulder D-ring.

? The BC inflator hose coming out of the BC (wings) is a custom 9 inch (21.6
cm) hose. The power inflator hose is 15 inches (36 cm) long. This short hose
arrangement is ideal for fine tuning buoyancy without a need to raise the
hose or to use the lower pulldumps on the wings. The power inflator hose is
attached to the left.

? When diving a wet suit use a backup BC. On dry suit dives, one set of
wings can be used. The dry suit serving as a backup BC.

update on my config (After experimenting with swimming double 85'3 {13L}
cylinders and double 112's {17L} without a BC I have since discontinued the
use of the backup BC as I can ascent from 200ft (60M) and do stops without a
BC provide I use AL stages (deco cylinders)

? The primary light for use in cave or wreck diving is normally waist
mounted. When diving in areas that are narrow, such as some sections of
wrecks or constricted caves, butt mounting is a logical choice. Waist
mounting is a simpler configuration for use in less constricted areas and is
ideal for long hose configuration.


? The safety lights are mounted on the shoulder straps with one being placed
on each shoulder strap. This allows ease of access to the lights while
keeping them removed from busy areas and reducing drag.

 Backplate with reel rings attached to backplate.
Photo: Tom Mount
? Reels as needed (use only what you need) are carried on the waist D- rings
or on a ring attached to the backplate or back D-ring on the crotch strap.
The lift bag is carried by two surgical tubing loops attached to the base of
the backplate.

? Stage tank rigging is by having a line around the neck of the cylinder and
to the point on the cylinder that will align the bottom snap with the waist
D-ring. The line is covered with tubing. This can also be with stage straps.

? Backplate: I use a stainless steel backplate with a QD on the lower left
shoulder strap. I have a back injury that flares up from time to time and
the TransPac is friendlier on the back on those occasions. I also use a
TransPac when traveling due to its lighter weight and ease of changing from
singles to doubles. Attached to the backplate or TransPac is a continuos
crotch strap that has a loop that goes around the waist strap. The crotch
strap has a DPV ring at the front and a tow ring at the back of the strap.
At the base of the backplate or TransPac a surgical tubing loop is at either
side to allow storage of a lift bag when diving in open water.

? Cutting tools are carried on all dives. A pair of surgical scissors is in
a holster on the waist strap. A small knife is placed on the back of my
light handle for immediate access. ( Update I carry the knife on my waist
strap now)

? The cylinders normally used are double 112's (17L) for cave diving and
double 85's (13 L) for deep open water and wreck dives. On dives not
requiring larger cylinders, I use either double 45's (7L) or single
cylinders with dual valve outlets that provide sufficient volume of gas for
the planned dive.

Note! Most of the time I dive with a CCR today instead of OC.




Jarrod Jablonski demonstrates the Hogarthian configuration.
The Hogarthian Gear Configuration

Jarrod Jablonski

Cave diving has undergone some significant changes in the past three
decades. One thing that never seems to change, however, is the ongoing
debate over the optimum gear configuration. Over the years, dozens of styles
have marched to center stage and purported to be the most effective, the
safest, the easiest, the cheapest, or lately, even the most "technical".
Some divers are able to maintain a causal tolerance for configurations other
than their own, while others adamantly insist that their chosen rig is the
only correct choice. How can one sport support such a variety of opinions
and, perhaps more importantly, how is a diver to dim the clamor of opinions
in order to make a sound and reasonable decision?
The most sensible way to make an educated decision is to gather information
and evaluate which of the available options best satisfies your particular
needs. Nearly all styles of gear configuration allow the average diver to
perform a technical dive - be it cave, wreck or deep diving.
Even many an open water diver has returned unscathed from an ill-advised
venture into the depths, the belly of a wreck or the dark passages of a cave
system. Yet despite such fortunate outcomes, the consensus of opinion within
the industry holds that a certain minimum of equipment is necessary to
safely penetrate these overhead environments.
It is the specific points of exactly how one should configure that equipment
and what equipment to use that garnishes the lion's share of the sometimes
bitter debate over equipment configuration.

Long Hose Styles
Technical equipment configurations come in a number of different styles, and
there are endless variations on the finer points of each of these styles.
One major dividing point that can be applied to most all rigs, however,
involves the manner in which the long hose is worn and used. While many
differences may exist within each of the two groups that will be detailed
below, the common element that unites all other variations within the
group - and which separates them from the other group - is the diver's
belief in whether the regulator donated to an out of air diver should come
from one's mouth or from one's retaining device.

The Bungie Style - Donating From One's Retaining Device
The most common style places the long hose in some type of surgical tubing
or restrictive band. This band may be placed on the side of the tanks, near
the manifold, on the back plate or nearly anywhere that suits one's fancy.
Proponents of this style vary in their degree of dedication to the
refinement of their equipment placement, with some divers seeming to
discount the need to streamline and reduce the overall clutter of the rig.
However, a few divers practicing this style do begin to approach the
minimalism concept so obvious in the Hogarthian style.

The Hogarthian Style - Donating Your Own Regulator
The Hogarthian Style has many minor variations, yet its general tenets call
for a policy of gear minimalism. In other words, if it is not needed, it is
a potential liability. The Hogarthian style strives to eliminate the
unnecessary while configuring the necessary in the most streamlined manner
possible. Named for its founding father, William Hogarth Main, the
Hogarthian style is constantly being improved and refined. Bill Main
himself, despite nearly 25 years of cave diving, is invariably showing up at
local dive sites with modifications. Much can be learned from his
dedication. Despite the minor variations that exist within the Hogarthian
diving community, one will find the strictest of its practitioners to be
remarkable similar in their configuration.
While the trademark of a Hogarthian diver is that they breathe the long hose
and donate this hose to an out of air diver, the style is really about much
more. Regardless of an individual's preference for which hose to donate,
much can be learned from the adherence to minimalism so central to the
Hogarthian configuration.
Many divers appreciate that certain extraordinary dives may require a degree
of refinement simply unnecessary for the average diver. Yet, in much the
same way space travel is merely a distant dream for the majority, the
advances gained from this pursuit are abundant. How much of this refinement
is reasonable or, more importantly, helpful?
One's attention to detail should at least be proportional to the severity of
dives being done. If all your dives focus on the main line and penetrations
are modest, your equipment requirements might seem less stringent in terms
of refinement and streamlining through minimalism. Yet, if your dives begin
to incorporate stage diving and longer penetrations, then you should pay a
correspondingly greater degree of attention to the finer points of your rig.
In general, you should always evaluate your rig on the basis of how well the
package functions as a whole. Equipment should be seen as a cohesive unit
that facilitates safe diving, and is not a haphazard collection of available
items.

Breathing the Long Hose
Despite its growing popularity, many divers remain opposed to donating the
regular from their mouth. The following discussion addresses the most common
objections concerning donation of the long hose from the mouth.

1. "The last thing I want to do in an out of air situation is give up my
primary regulator."
Editor's note: Many divers who advocate breathing the short hose have
exceptional skill. They elect to breathe the short hose based on the belief
that the diver donating air should insure that their control is complete.
This is based on the assumption that the out of air diver will be shaken and
possibly on the verge of panic. In fact, many of the most disciplined and
competent divers I know breathe the short hose. I personally advocate
breathing from the long hose.
This does not really seem to be a rational argument. It is likely that a
diver incapable of removing the regulator from his or her mouth for five to
10 seconds is not skilled or practiced enough to be in an overhead
environment.


One may question this diver's ability to handle an out of air situation in
which the out of air diver chooses the regulator in their mouth. A diver
with this degree of concern over the regulator in their mouth may find it
quite a challenge to even deal with the very real possibility of an
accidentally dislodged regulator.
By donating the long hose regulator from the mouth in an out of air
situation, one guarantees that the person most in need of a clean, fully
functioning regulator is going to get one. If you pass any other regulator
to an out of air diver, it is quite possible that the regulator received may
contain contaminant that will be impossible for the stressed diver to
manage. In essence, what you will have done is to place the last straw on
the camel's back, creating the last problem your dive buddy can manage.
The advantage of donating your long hose primary is that you are always
ready for this very real possibility. You are, in essence, always prepared
for any eventuality rather than simply maintaining a fixed picture of how
things should operate. Emergencies have an annoying habit of not going as
planned, and the Hogarthian diver is prepared to manage a variety of out of
air scenarios.

2. "I don't want to breathe my long hose. I want to have the best
performance regulator in my mouth, and the long hose decreases this
performance."
With literally thousands of deep exploration dives accomplished by divers
breathing the long hose, the performance argument seems rather a moot point.
Yet, if one were to insist that the reduction of performance is
unmanageable, it seems like a poor solution to leave the stressed, out of
air diver gasping for air on this lower performance regulator so you can
have a more relaxed dive.
Your best performance regulator must be on your long hose. If it's
performance is unacceptable in a relaxed diving situation, it is certainly
inappropriate to suggest that your stressed dive buddy is better prepared
for this increased resistance in a time of stress.

3. "I just don't want to deal with that hose around my neck."
Any skill worth learning usually takes refinement. The long hose may, at
times, seem uncomfortable to some people, but, regardless of your storage
location, you have to deal with that hose. When you tuck a long hose into
some surgical tubing, you feel that it is forgotten. Indeed, for some
people, it is forgotten. But what happens when that hose pulls free, or it
is not set right?
If one relies on his or her buddy to arrange that hose, what guarantee is
there that it will be to your personal liking? In a sport that preaches
self-sufficiency, it does not seem logical to configure your equipment in a
way that forces dependence on a dive buddy.

4. "You can't stage dive and breathe the long hose."
I would never have imagined that people thought this to be true, yet
exposure to cave instructors whose abilities I otherwise respect has proved
me wrong. Stage diving Hogarthian style is in no way more difficult than for
any other style. In fact, the majority of cave exploration currently being
conducted is by divers breathing the long hose, despite the fact that they
are a minority in the cave community.

The System Approach
No review of the Hogarthian style is complete without a discussion of the
system itself. It is not merely the streamlined nature of their equipment
nor the use of the long hose that sets the Hogarthian diver apart, it is the
way the pieces are carefully arranged to create a harmonious system.
In the Hogarthian style, your equipment must function cohesively and be
configured to provide you with the greatest support. It is, after all,
life-supporting equipment.
For example, let's assume that you have made the commitment to breathing the
long hose. That decision must not be the end to your deliberation. In fact,
it is really only the beginning. Where and how you store the balance of this
length of hose and, indeed, how long it is are at least as crucial as your
decision to use it as a primary regulator.
Most divers following this style have opted for the 7 foot (2.1 m) length
and run the extra hose under a hip-mounted light canister, across the chest
and finish with one-half loop around the neck and into the mouth. This
system has proved to be ideal because it allows nearly 5 feet (1.5 m) of
hose to instantly be available, and the remaining two can be deployed with a
quick flick of the hand. A 9 foot (2.8 m) is ridiculous and dangerous in
most situations, and 5 foot (1.5 m) is precariously short in restrictive
passages. Do not try and wrap this hose around your neck multiple times as
its deployment will be time consuming, awkward and potentially dangerous.
Why a hip mounted light canister? The hip mounted canister allows for easy
removal in the event of entanglement, visual verification (I prefer clear
housings) to assure it has not become a "water-cooled" version, a shorter
cord to deal with, and assurance of general stability. In addition, the lack
of a light swinging from the bottom of your tanks provides ample room to
store reels and extra scooters, and even provides an ideal place to tow a
stranded diver during an aborted scooter dive. Finally, the hip mounted
canister is much easier to remove and replace, and there is much less danger
or setting 100-plus pound tanks on top of it.



"Hogarthian Configuration" stern view.
(Arrow indicates long hose.)
Reduce, Reduce, and Reduce
Too many divers today seem to be under the impression that more is always
better. In technical diving, what is needed is better equipment, not more.
Whatever equipment is not needed is simply a detriment.
Equipment choice should be made as a result of a cost versus benefit
analysis in which one must weigh the potential risk against the perceived
benefit. The difficult part and, in fact the thing that really defines a
safe and effective diver, is his/her ability to accurately evaluate the
benefit while candidly weighing the acceptable risk.

Lights are an essential portion of your equipment; yet, again, more is not
always better. One primary and two backup lights are all that is required in
most situations. Unless one intentionally dives with faulty equipment or
ignores common maintenance, the likelihood of a triple light failure is
statistically insignificant.
If one carries six lights, he or she is likely to encounter many other
unnecessary problems. Not only is one less likely to care for these lights,
but they will cause him/her numerous entanglement hazards that will far
outweigh the perceived benefit.
Three good lights-one strong dependable primary with two small backup
lights-is more than sufficient for most dives. If light failures are common
on your dives, you should re-evaluate your equipment and/or your technique.
I have discussed the placement of the primary light canister and the
advantages of hip mounted operation, but how about one's reserve lights?
These lights can be stored in several places. Many people prefer to mount
the backup lights on the tanks. This system can appear fairly clean,
depending on the user's dedication, but the lights may pull free in smaller
caves and passageways in wrecks plus they tend to get tangled in the line.
When lights are instead placed on the harness below the arms, they tuck
neatly out of the way and are essentially snag-free.
The primary light is an integral part of any diver's equipment. Your light
must provide ample illumination, be reliable, and allow flexible use. The
test tube style light satisfies all these requirements and more. The light
beam has excellent illumination properties, is simple to operate, has
tremendous flexibility, and, when connected to a canister style light, will
provide stalwart reliability.
The Goodman style handle that rests atop your hand allows for further
flexibility, as it provides the unencumbered use of both hands. A Goodman
style handle allows just as much flexibility as the helmet mounted light,
yet does not blind your dive buddies. It also allows the diver to be more
aware of his/her surroundings as the light is easily directed around the
cave or wreck.

Cages tend to be somewhat controversial topics. First, let me say that I
dislike valve cages. I am not against the objective they purport to
accomplish - protecting the valves and manifold from impacts - but I am
against their apparent success.
First, let us look at the supposed problem: contacting the ceiling. If a
diver hits the ceiling on a regular basis and concludes that a cage is the
correct solution, I would argue that they are using flawed, or at least
questionable, logic. If a diver hits the ceiling a lot, they should not look
for mechanical substitutions to becoming a better diver. A diver should just
work on their technique. Okay, so everyone hits the ceiling on occasion, but
how hard? If the diver is swimming, I think a diver is being a bit
reactionary and the wearer should really reconsider the risk and need for a
cage.
If the diver is scootering, then they have a somewhat legitimate concern.
They may choose one of the large dome style cages that appear to be solid
protection but also have an annoying habit of wedging their owner in small
places. Given the likelihood of a manifold failure, I would much rather go
cageless and remain flexible in small areas.
If one uses the smaller, more streamlined version of the cage which
substitutes curved metal guards above the regulators, then I think one is
fooling himself/herself. I have witnessed two people break their DIN
regulators off at the manifold despite the presence of these protective
devices. If, in fact, these devices are limited in their ability to
accomplish what they were designed for, then their large line catching
profile is far more a risk than a benefit.

Manifolds are, in general, the best method to manage your air supply. The
only exceptions, in my opinion, are when a diver is solo diving or using a
side mount configuration. If a diver is not pursuing either of these two
options, then they should not configure as if they are. I caution you to be
wary both of using independent valves and of diving with those who use
independent valves.
It requires great care and superior gas management capabilities to
effectively monitor independent cylinders. Experience has shown that most
people are not capable of proper management. Given the likelihood of
manifold failure, I will remain an ardent supporter of manifolds in nearly
all diving environments.

Isolators are nifty little inventions that responded to our desire for the
cake after it was eaten. They are, in theory, excellent ideas and, in
practice, probably fairly decent. As long as one maintains an awareness of
his/her strengths and weaknesses, isolators remain effective pieces of
equipment. They are, however, not necessarily the saving grace some may have
you believe.
First, while they may provide a redundant option to isolate your cylinders,
they are also another valve and just as likely to fail, as is the valve you
are circumventing. Be aware that due to the nature of their construction,
failure of an isolator will allow only one cylinder to be isolated, thus
protecting only half of the gas supply. Furthermore, one must always guard
against the common occurrence of valves that are inadvertently turned off
during filling or during safety drills.

Valve knobs should be given some degree of attention. Rubber knobs are my
personal favorite. They are durable, shock absorbent, shatter proof, and
easy to turn. Their only down side is tendency to shut the left post down
upon contact with the ceiling or sides of an overhead environment.
Personally, were I diving a manifold where this was a problem, I would
probably still use rubber knobs but be more cautious.
Plastic knobs are dangerous because they can shatter, leaving you with
nothing to turn on or off. The metal knobs attempt to solve this and the
auto-shut-off problem, yet fall a little short because they can bend upon
impact and be rendered useless.

Tanks come is a variety of flavors, and I will spend very little time on
them. My preference is for the larger volume, lower pressure steel
cylinders. Tank size should be based on your size, your needs, and your
available funds. Do the cave and yourself a favor and really evaluate your
needs. Don't just buy the largest, most expensive tanks your wallet can
handle. Steel 95's (15 L) seems to be the best overall buy, but you must
evaluate your personal needs.

Gauges are necessary pieces of equipment, but people often succumb to the
more-is-better philosophy. Two timing devices should be more than sufficient
for anyone's needs. The gauges should be wrist mounted to avoid bulky
consoles and the resulting dredging effect they can create.
The pressure gauge should be free from a bulky console and mounted is a
clean area. A pressure gauge that is clipped to the belt keeps the chest
free from clutter and limits the items you will potentially drag in the mud.
The advent of hoseless gauges promises to solve all these problems, yet,
like most cure-alls, I remain patiently optimistic but, as yet, remain
unwilling to bestow all my air management faith in their reliability.

The body is the central component to any effective diving locker, and no
discussion of equipment would be complete without giving it a mention. Many
debates have revolved around the necessity of fitness in diving, and there
is no doubt that these debates will continue for years to come.
It seems that the most reasonable course would be to evaluate the type of
diving to be done and adjust one's level of fitness accordingly. The average
diver should be seeking good cardiovascular fitness with aerobic activity at
least three days a week for a minimum of 20 minutes. Good fitness can serve
you in life as well as diving, and a thorough fitness routine will leave you
more prepared for the rigors that diving can produce.
A person winded by a flight of stairs can certainly dive, but their ability
to manage stressful, air critical situations is limited by their physical
response to elevated exertion. This may seem inconsequential in a leisurely
dive but in an emergency, it can make all the difference. Certainly,
excessive exercise could be a potential liability as scar tissue
accumulation at the joints could reduce circulation, but this is a rare
case.

Conclusion
The next decade of diving will undoubtedly be full of excitement and
prodigious change. Undoubtedly, equipment advancements will continue and
many exciting advancements are bound to grace the diving world. Yet,
regardless of the level of change beyond the year 2000, two things will
undoubtedly remain constant: there will always be new equipment for people
to obsess over, and there will always be people arguing over how that
equipment should be configured. Your response to these arguments should be
based on your actual needs, and on the requirements of your diving
environment.





Respectfully yours,
Tom Mount
CEO IANTD World HQ
http://www.iantd.com


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