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George I know bullshit when I hear it. If you are going to spout the 'Rules" then you had better be prepared to live by them..... Katherine Irvine wrote: > IDIOT - you are soooooooo stupid. WHAT is "duck" tape ? Is this for > taping ducks? You are one seriously lame "duck" yourself. I thought you > said you were a lawyer - who are you kidding. You sound like one more > half wit dive instructor who needs "duck" tape for his mouth . > > The D U C T tape on our bottles tells those carrying them where to put > them, like "3500 feet" , contains information as to whether the bottle > is a safety or a stage, whether it is a drive bottle or a stage, whether > it goes to the habitat at 30 feet even though it is a bottom gas bottle > ( for breaks) whether it goes to the 50 foot trough as an extra 70 foot > bottle for open circuit deco , whether it is a spare 190 bottle, a rb > drive deco 240 bottle , etc..etc.. > > You want to screw with me ? You already look like a complete dope, but > keep it up. If I were not walking the walk, I would not be talking the > talk. I might also add that I do not get involved in the magazine > articles, films or stories, and have no control over the misprints, > miscues, pictures from other times and players, etc. > > I will refer you to my track record, however - that is crystal clear. > > bigmouthvon@be*.ne* wrote: > > > > George, > > > > Don't get upset as I am stating for the record your tank marking scheme when used > > is the most sensible. Furthermore stage markings should be mandatory. > > > > But check out page 35 of the new Advanced Diver magazine. According to the caption > > under the picture a stage bottle used on your record setting traverse dive has the > > MOD labeled with duck tape. Is this an accepted practice? > > > > Also in Immersed the stage bottle you are referring to on page 28 is also not marked > > in any apparent obvious way. What's the deal? > > > > Katherine Irvine wrote: > > > > > Jeff, anyone "with a grade school education" would know what the > > > buoyancy characteristics of aluminum bottles is. IF that genius were > > > using steel bottles, then he might was well try to balance these anchors > > > out by putting them on either side since he is already missing the boat > > > anyway. > > > > > > You try swimimng with me some time, big shot, in a current with your > > > bottles on either side falping ih the breeze, and let's see what > > > happens. The fact is they present less total drag when held together and > > > not moving, and the fact is that even if they have the heavier deco gas > > > in them, the light is on the other side anyway. > > > > > > Let's see, Mr. Grade School education. The normal canister light in salt > > > water is 6 pounds negative. That is on the right side. Two full 80's of > > > air or nitrox in salt water are what, big time? Could it be -6? What if > > > they have 50% helium? > > > > > > The problem is that you guys don't do jack for diving, and when you do > > > it is a cluster and a joke. You have not tried anything that is proven > > > by the pros to work, yet you have assinine comments like the crap you > > > wrote below full of condecension when in fact you should be embarrased > > > to be this publicly stupid. > > > > > > > > > Jeff Waugh wrote: > > > > > > > > You are correct! It is MUCH more balanced when NOT scootering. Anyone with a > > > > grade school education knows that if you put a 20 lb. weight on one side of a > > > > scale and a 10 lb. weight on the other, .............well, you can figure out > > > > the rest! It does not interfere with the light. Put a D-ring on the outside of > > > > your canister and your bottle attaches like normal. The long hose is placed > > > > under the waist strap of your back plate harness. (Note: This affords MUCH > > > > quicker deployment of the hose than being wrapped under the light!) See, there > > > > are other RIGHT ways of doing things! Don't believe everything that is being > > > > "Preached" on this list. Stand up and be an individual who tries different > > > > things to find out what works best before you just do what you are > > > > "Programmed" to do by the all mighty elite one! > > > > > > > > Guy Wittig wrote: > > > > > > > > > George > > > > > > > > > > Just to fuel the flames - would you mount both stages on one side when you > > > > > are not using a scooter ? > > > > > > > > > > It seems that you would be better balanced (bouyancy and drag) with > > > > > bilateral stages (if it were not for the scooter). > > > > > > > > > > Or does it interfere with the light canister and the long hose ? > > > > > > > > > > Guy > > > > > > > > > > > Steel tanks > > > > > >> Let me say right off the bat that while I understand DIR uses aluminum > > > > > >> tanks (and a weight belt), that is just not sufficient gas for a > > > > > >> swimming deep gas dive with a sufficient reserve. Maybe a 10 or 15 > > > > > >> minute bounce dive, but our bottom times are routinely 20 to 30 > > > > > >> minutes at 200 to 350'. A scooter could change this but most are not > > > > > >> scootering. > > > > > >> Double steel with aluminum back plate (light) and aluminum stages are > > > > > >> needed. > > > > > >> With this weight comes the need for redundant lift. (Here comes the > > > > > >> flames) > > > > > >> Two separate Halcyon or Diverite wings with a wet suit, or only one > > > > > >> with a dry suit. > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Decompression stress > > > > > >> In order to provide the maximum safety margin while using high ppo2 > > > > > >> deco mixes (with breaks of course) and to ease diver exertion on deco > > > > > >> a Jon Line is essential. > > > > > >> The best option, if available, would be to arrange a free floating > > > > > >> deco line before hand. But if this is not available a Jon Line is an > > > > > >> efficient tool. > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Spare Mask > > > > > >> Since the ocean has no floor or ceiling like a cave, a spare mask is > > > > > >> essential. > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Flame away fella's!!! > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Bill > > > > > >> > > > > > >> PS. I would be interested in hearing from any other ocean divers who > > > > > >> have any suggestions, as there is always room for improvement. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >-- > > > > > >Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. > > > > > >Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'. > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. > > > > > Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'. > > > > > > -- > > > Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. > > > Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'. -- Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'. Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
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