Mailing List Archive

Mailing List: techdiver

Banner Advert

Message Display

From: <bigvon@be*.ne*>
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 08:08:12 +0000
To: kirvine@sa*.ne*
CC: techdiver@aquanaut.com
Subject: Re: Modified DIR-Ocean
George,

Don't get upset as I am stating for the record  your tank marking scheme when
used
is the most sensible. Furthermore stage markings should be mandatory.

But check out page 35 of the new Advanced Diver magazine. According to the
caption
under the picture a stage bottle used on your record setting traverse dive has
the
MOD labeled with duck tape. Is this an accepted practice?

Also in Immersed the stage bottle you are referring to on page 28 is also not
marked
in any apparent obvious way.  What's the deal?


Katherine Irvine wrote:

> Jeff, anyone "with a grade school education" would know what the
> buoyancy characteristics of aluminum bottles is. IF that genius were
> using steel bottles, then he might was well try to balance these anchors
> out by putting them on either side since he is already missing the boat
> anyway.
>
> You try swimimng with me some time, big shot, in a current with your
> bottles on either side falping ih the breeze, and let's see what
> happens. The fact is they present less total drag when held together and
> not moving, and the fact is that even if they have the heavier deco gas
> in them, the light is on the other side anyway.
>
> Let's see, Mr. Grade School education. The normal canister light in salt
> water is 6 pounds negative. That is on the right side.  Two full 80's of
> air or nitrox in salt water are what, big time? Could it be -6? What if
> they have 50% helium?
>
> The problem is that you guys don't do jack for diving, and when you do
> it is a cluster and a joke. You have not tried anything that is proven
> by the pros to work, yet you have assinine comments like the crap you
> wrote below full of condecension when in fact you should be embarrased
> to be this publicly stupid.
>
>
> Jeff Waugh wrote:
> >
> > You are correct! It is MUCH more balanced when NOT scootering. Anyone with a
> > grade school education knows that if you put a 20 lb. weight on one side of
a
> > scale and a 10 lb. weight on the other, .............well, you can figure
out
> > the rest! It does not interfere with the light. Put a D-ring on the outside
of
> > your canister and your bottle attaches like normal. The long hose is placed
> > under the waist strap of your back plate harness. (Note: This affords MUCH
> > quicker deployment of the hose than being wrapped under the light!) See,
there
> > are other RIGHT ways of doing things! Don't believe everything that is being
> > "Preached" on this list. Stand up and be an individual who tries different
> > things to find out what works best before you just do what you are
> > "Programmed" to do by the all mighty elite one!
> >
> > Guy Wittig wrote:
> >
> > > George
> > >
> > > Just to fuel the flames - would you mount both stages on one side when you
> > > are not using a scooter ?
> > >
> > > It seems that you would be better balanced (bouyancy and drag) with
> > > bilateral stages (if it were not for the scooter).
> > >
> > > Or does it interfere with the light canister and the long hose ?
> > >
> > > Guy
> > >
> > > > Steel tanks
> > > >> Let me say right off the bat that while I understand DIR uses aluminum
> > > >> tanks (and a weight belt), that is just not sufficient gas for a
> > > >> swimming deep gas dive with a sufficient reserve. Maybe a 10 or 15
> > > >> minute bounce dive, but our bottom times are routinely 20 to 30
> > > >> minutes at 200 to 350'.  A scooter could change this but most are not
> > > >> scootering.
> > > >> Double steel with aluminum back plate (light) and aluminum stages are
> > > >> needed.
> > > >> With this weight comes the need for redundant lift. (Here comes the
> > > >> flames)
> > > >> Two separate Halcyon or Diverite wings with a wet suit, or only one
> > > >> with a dry suit.
> > > >>
> > > >> Decompression stress
> > > >> In order to provide the maximum safety margin while using high ppo2
> > > >> deco mixes (with breaks of course) and to ease diver exertion on deco
> > > >> a Jon Line is essential.
> > > >> The best option, if available, would be to arrange a free floating
> > > >> deco line before hand. But if this is not available a Jon Line is an
> > > >> efficient tool.
> > > >>
> > > >> Spare Mask
> > > >> Since the ocean has no floor or ceiling like a cave, a spare mask is
> > > >> essential.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> Flame away fella's!!!
> > > >>
> > > >> Bill
> > > >>
> > > >> PS.  I would be interested in hearing from any other ocean divers who
> > > >> have any suggestions, as there is always room for improvement.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >--
> > > >Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
> > > >Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
> > > Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.
>
> --
> Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
> Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.

--
Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to `techdiver@aquanaut.com'.
Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to `techdiver-request@aquanaut.com'.

Navigate by Author: [Previous] [Next] [Author Search Index]
Navigate by Subject: [Previous] [Next] [Subject Search Index]

[Send Reply] [Send Message with New Topic]

[Search Selection] [Mailing List Home] [Home]