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Dell,
Please calm down and reread all of the HID posts. First of all, I was
responding to a gentleman name GREG who aked a simple question-
The question was:
what will happen if you accidently catch your light cord on something
causing the E/O connector to become unpluged?
I believe his question was pointed towards the fact that hot striking
or restarting an HID light could be problematic.
I simply stated that a "COMMON PRACTICE" was to carry a 2nd light
(possibly halogen)with a plug, test tube and e/o pig tail. Now, I've
been using E/O connectors for 22 years or so and corrosion is only a
problem when the gold plating is worn away. This has nothing to due with
salt versus fresh water. The connectors are expensive, but I didn't
suggest that the cord (pig tail) had to be the required lenght to meet
the canister.
Furthermore, I never said this was the NORM. I said it was a common
practice and yes, members of the WKPP do this. I am sorry that Dive Rite
can not keep up with the times as far as diving/equipment technology
goes. Possibly paying more attention to practical details rather than
sales ploy may assist you in your endeavers. Maybe extreme exposure or
halcyon can give you a few tips. Otherwise keep playing with you
transpac, and bullshit cannister light.
Chears
Dell Motes wrote:
>
> So the WKPP used E/O cords before the HID came along, with the halogen
> lighting ?? I wasn't aware of that. Any long penetrations, by any team,
> (Mexico) would be in this same time frame. I'll be damned, you learn
> something everyday. Hey, can some WKPP confirm this for me ?
> I don't recall this ever being mentioned in there write-ups, and I can't
> recall ever seeing any when I was over there.I've done many penetrations
> requiring several hours to complete. It never occurred to me for the team to
> use E\O cords in case of bulb failure (?). Should this now become standard
> practice ??The issue would still remain. "The norm" for HID lighting,
> according to John Walker, would require this setup.
> If primary light failure is an issue because of logistics, it should apply
> to all lighting.
> If a technique is developed because of design characteristics, it should be
> stated as such. It does not, and should not, apply to other designs of
> different origin.
> Dell Motes
> Dive Rite
> 117 W.Washington St.
> Lake City, Florida 32055
> www.dive-rite.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Connell <kevin@nw*.co*>
> To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>
> Cc: techdiver@Aquanaut.com <techdiver@Aquanaut.com>
> Date: Thursday, August 05, 1999 11:01 AM
> Subject: Re: HID Light Question
>
> >Dell, I think the WKPP guys carry a backup slug because it would be pretty
> >uncomfortable doing a 2 hour exit on backup lights for something like a
> >broken bulb or test tube.
> >
> >For normal dives, no backup slug needed.
> >
> >At 10:17 AM 8/5/1999 -0400, you wrote:
> >>I've been diving several different designs of HID for several years now.
> The
> >>configuration is the same. One primary HID, two backups on the shoulder
> >>straps. Why would I need a backup primary / halogen ?? The HID IS LESS
> >>LIKELY TO FAIL. You are more likely to have difficulty starting the bulb
> >>when you first get in the water.(Start it before you need it). Once
> ignited,
> >>they outperform halogen in every way. If you carry an extra because an E/O
> >>cord may un-plug, thats' a design characteristic, not " the norm" for HID
> >>lighting. Was it "the norm" to do this with halogen before HID?? E/O cords
> >>have been rarely used for this type of diving, for obvious reasons.(Cost
> >>being one issue) Yes, they require more attention when used in salt water.
> >>You typically have to keep them lubricated to prevent corrosion or
> >>oxidation, which makes it easy to accidentally separate them. Cord length
> is
> >>determined by a waist mounted light. (Is there another way ;-) A 14 amphr
> >>pack will burn one for close to 7 hours, a 7 amphr will go 3 hours. With a
> >>buddy team, the amount of redundancy is still there, without adding more
> (?)
> >>gear.
> >>You want to shoot video, you slap a lumidyne reflector on it that was
> >>clipped off when not in use. No big deal, highly effective and efficient.
> >>I don't know about the other manufacturers, our warranty is the same as
> >>always. We don't warranty any bulb, halogen or otherwise, the electronics
> >>carry a year from Welch Allyn themselves and us. (Provided there has been
> NO
> >>tampering, same other obvious limitations apply). These are not user
> >>serviceable. When in doubt, LEAVE IT ALONE, and send it back. This will
> >>maintain your warranty, and you'll be happy. If you don't want to hassle
> >>with a small shipping charge for a several hundred dollar system, DON'T
> BUY
> >>IT.
> >>Stick with your everyday, garden variety, halogen.
> >>A word of caution when wiring up an E/O type design. CORRECT POLARITY IS
> >>VITAL. That is the first thing that will fry a ballast, your done, no
> >>questions asked.
> >>In standard lighting, polarity is only an issue when charging.
> >>Input polarity is crucial in HID.
> >>Our current design has the ballast integrated in the lid, fully potted to
> >>help prevent water damage.( This has been highly effective in testing and
> >>field use). The bulb and ballast are effectively isolated from each other,
> >>therefore your most likely to have to replace only one of them in the
> event
> >>of some type of failure. You bust a lens, chances are the bulb may be the
> >>only thing compromised. Even then, your bulb may be O.K. as long as there
> is
> >>no mechanical damage to it. The power cord design goes along way toward
> >>preventing water traveling throughout the entire system.
> >>Dell Motes
> >>Dive Rite
> >>117 W.Washington St.
> >>Lake City, Florida 32055
> >>www.dive-rite.com
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: John Walker <techdive@ea*.ne*>
> >>To: Dvrcraig@ao*.co* <Dvrcraig@ao*.co*>
> >>Cc: techdiver@aquanaut.com <techdiver@aquanaut.com>
> >>Date: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 3:11 PM
> >>Subject: Re: HID Light Question
> >>
> >>
> >> >Greg,
> >> >
> >> > A common practice when diving with a HID is to carry a backup in
> >> >your pocket. The backup is your typical 50W halogen bulb, socket, test
> >> >tube with an e/o pig tail.
> >> >
> >> > If you are diving in the optimal dive team you should have two other
> >> >buddys lights brightly glowing while you make a fairly fast switch if
> >> >such an event should acure. Beside your two buddies light you should
> >> >also have at least two back up lights,to possibly signal those buddies.
> >> >This dive team should have a minimum of 9 lights.
> >> >
> >> > Until something better comes along this looks as though it will be
> >> >the norm. You may want to check with the light manufacturer as far as
> >> >warrenty goes but good luck on the HID units. These seem to be for the
> >> >big boys with big bucks doing big dives.
> >> >
> >> > John
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >Dvrcraig@ao*.co* wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Since the HID light is not capable of a hot re-strike. What will
> happen
> >> >> if you accidentally catch your light cord on something, causing the EO
> >> >> connector to become unplugged? I imagine you are going to be sitting
> in
> >> >> the dark for a while. But what effect will it have on the integrity of
> >> >> the system particularly in salt water?
> >> >>
> >> >> Also since the HID retrofit is using components from other light
> >> >> manufactures, who covers the warranty issues. Does this modification
> of
> >> >> an existing light system void all warranties? All opinons
> entertained.
> >> >>
> >>Craig
--
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