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Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 08:17:04 -0500
From: "G. Irvine" <gmirvine@sa*.ne*>
Organization: Woodville Karst Plain Project
To: freeattic@co*.ci*.uf*.ed*
CC: techdiver <techdiver@aquanaut.com>, cavers <cavers@ge*.co*>
Subject: Argon Bottle Placement
The argon bottle does not interfere with the stages on the left side.
If it is on the right, where the light is, you can not reach behind you
to untangle yourself. You can reach around the argon botle, or  the
light, but not both together. It appears that the bottle would get in
the way of stages, but it does not in fact do so. Try putting on your
tanks and have somebody hold the argon bottle on the right, and se how
much range of motion you have lost.

 The bottle needs to be upside down ( so you can reach the valve easily
), it needs to be closer to the bottom of the tanks ( so that it is in
the slipstream of the tank and not making its own pushwave, and so that
the hose feeds freely below the edge of the wings when they blow up),
and it needs to be stable so it does not set up its own drag by moving
around.

 It is preferable to be able to release it yourself so that if you get
keyed in a restriction or stuck on something, it is removeable, just
like your light should be. Carmichael makes a great argon bottle holder,
but I do not have one. I have two types - one for tight cave, and one
for powercave. The tight cave uses hose clamps on the tank to slide
smoothly through a restricition, as in Sally Ward, and the rest have
webbing.

  I use black 1/8" bungee loops to keep the velcro secure, but they
easily pull away if I try to remove the straps.

  The bottle needs to be a low pressure 2015 bottle with a 3000 burst
disk. It needs to be permanently marked "argon", and it should never be
filled on a compressor with air. These bottles will let go. The
regulator needs a pressure relief valve so that you do not lose your
hose or damage your drysuit valve in the event of a first stage failure.
The intermediate pressure of the reg needs to be set way low , like 60
to 80 psi to keep the action of the inflator very slow ( you anticipate
and take the pinch off ) and to buy you some time in the event that the
drysuit valve sticks. The inflator hose heed to have a positive release,
as in the kind supplied by DUI. For high rollers, commercial
quick-dissconnects are the ticket.

  I hook everything in front of me and send it back between my legs, so
can get my stuff from front or back, but if something gets between my
second scooter and my legs, I need to be able to reach it. This is hard
with 121'as, easy with 104's. For 121's, you pull your legs into  tuck
and get whatever the problem is.

  Obviously, the way we work, the buddy would solve problems for you,
but thinking of all situations in advance makes this placement correct.
We also like to have everyone place gear in an identical fashion so that
in the event of a problem, the other divers can deal with it routinely,
rather than trying to figure out some new convolution in the middle of
an emergency. We do not want to have somebody disconnecting the wrong
hose or turning of the wrong valve.

  On the rebreathers, Vinnny and JJ are using the argon bottle to hold
up their switch blocks ( whc8ih are on the right), and you can not reach
behind the 121's with the reabreather anyway. I keep mine on the left
with the rebreather because I always do everything the same way so that
in a pinch, I can react automaticly - mine stays on the left. I tried
other placements but they all resulted in loss of range of motion or an
inabiilty to reach the valve. I lay my switchblock hoses over my light
and that holds them up. Vin and JJ have a bigger light so that will not
work for them. I have a small nicad light which is sitting a couple of
inches below the tanks so that the rebreather hoses can get behind it.
However, with the rebreather diving we all watch each other so closely
that by the time one discovers a problem, the other guy is already
fixing it.

  The original argon rig from the Gavin days was according to the
original Hogarthian thinking, which was that all gear should be easily
replaceable at any dive store. Hoses were standeard lengths, etc. I
changed that by asking the dive gear manufacturers to make what we need
, and now you can buy everything we use right of of the shelf in most
places. Dive Rite has all of our hose lengths as standard, for example.
What started out as custom gear for me is now stock stuff anywhere. 

   All of our gear decsions have been thouroughly thought all the way
thorugh and we have tried all of the other combinations. Since we are
diving a total system, the whole package must be considered dynamicly,
not each piece in isolation. That is what the strokes do, and that is
why we have the classic "portrait of a stroke" taped to the door of the
van, as a reminder of what happens when personal prefrence is placed in
front of team safety where people with no clue make life and death
decisons over a bowl of Gainesville Red- if you live through it, it is
becuase the gear failed and stopped the dive - see the Bible of the
Stroke, for 129 examples of this.


Jeff Bentley wrote:

 >I was jsut playing with my skeet thrower again and came up wtih this
one:
 >From what I have seen most folks have the argon bottle on their left
> side?
> 
> What is the logic behind this?
>
--
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