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Bob Wolov posted this to Freeeattic, and pretty well answers the question. You really need to see the light to understand what is being done differently: all we are really trying to do is make them so that they never, ever fail. There is a list of things a mile long idiosyncratic to my personal lights, but now you are into hundreds of dollars. I would suggest simply rigging the connection so that the wires don;t move - see Wolov's comments. - G That's precisely what I'm trying to do. I suspected (and now George confirms) that the Gavin light (Lamar English model the same?) being mostly hand built prototypes are labor intensive to fabricate and therefore costly to sell as is. I've been told of the differences in the "WKPP model" (heavier bulkheading and routing of the endplates to "key in" the battery pack, and the use of banana plugs to connect the battery) but frankly not having seen either model (the real Gavin and the commercial AUL) I can't speak intelligently on how practical it would be for me to make the more important mods. (hence my temptation if a *REAL* WKPP was available) As I told JJ in another post, if I've learned nothing else from you guys, its to "Keep it simple, keep it accessible, and keep it safe!" I've already learned to walk on by the Diverite's sold up north my way (too complicated, too many places to leak and too $$$) and for that alone I thank you! Robb W ======================================== CDR R.B. Wolov, MC, (FS), USNR Department of Orthopedic Pathology Armed Forces Institute of Pathology 14th & Alaska Aves. NW Washington, DC 20306-6000 wolov@hi*.co* (preferred) wolov@em*.af*.os*.mi* <---- End Forwarded Message ----> George M. Irvine III DIR WKPP 1400 SE 11 ST Ft Lauderdale, FL 33316 954-493-6655 FAX 6698 Email gmiiii@in*.co*
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