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Tom, I have two, but they are both nicad and custom built by Arnold. Ny two lead acid lights were made by Bill Gavin. I basicly require that the light plugs itself in when the lid is in the position where the cord protects the switch (which is on the inside, cord through the middle), that the bottom be recessed into the tube, that the switch also have its own protector, that it turn on by flipping forward, not backward or sideways (so that my backuplights or anything else will hit it towards "on" rather than "off"), that the connnectors are low resistance bannanas, that the wires are 12 guage and soldered everywhere, that the switch is a certain kind which I get from Skipper Electonics in Gainseville, that there is only one o-ring and it is a face seal to insure extrusion of the o-ring on explosion or gas buildup rather than facefullofshreddedplastic, that the cord and o-ring are matched perfectly, that the fittings are stainless steel, that the cord is exactly the length from the top of the light on my right hip to my outstreatched left hand, and that the case balances excactly by positioning the belt loop (which is sewn) on the canister properly, and I use a 3500 Kelvin 50 watt 1400 lumens bulb . Other than that, nothing special. I have not put much thought into lights, obviously - I am waiting for Dive Rite or Chris Brown to tell me how to do it. On Mon, 14 Oct 1996, "Tom Hanaway (S. Fl.)" <hanaway@ga*.ne*> wrote: >Do you have a fact sheet (or will you post?) how you've modified the AUL >light for your own use. TIA, Tom. > > George M. Irvine III DIR WKPP 1400 SE 11 ST Ft Lauderdale, FL 33316 954-493-6655 FAX 6698 Email gmiiii@in*.co*
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