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Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 15:57:17 -0400
To: cavers@cavers.com
From: Charles Ayash <cagraphics@mi*.co*>
Subject: Re:Tanks-Paint and Rust/ The Fix
>Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 15:56:47 -0400
>To: vbtech@ci*.co*
>From: Charles Ayash <cagraphics@mi*.co*>
>Subject: Re:Tanks-Paint and Rust/ The Fix
>
>
>
>Rust
>3m Rust Avenger  (3m#3180) list price 5.29
>This is a pen type unit that also has an abrasion tip
>on the cap,  that is used to scuff the loose rust particles.
>The pen is then used to apply a thin coat of liquid
>that stops the rust and also becomes a protective coating.
>
>Can be purchased at a auto paint and body supplier/jobber.
>
>
>Blasting a cylinder and new powder coating??
>Al. cylinders or steel;  IF blasted would be costly
>due to Glass Bead Blasting would be better than sand.
>By the time you powder coat the tank I think that
>a new Luxfer would be cheaper and Safer.
>
>A better method than powder coating would be to use
>an Epoxy Primer and Paint. So unless you are a Painter
>"ya gonna pay" someone to pull the trigger not to mention
>the cost of these paints.
>This is not cheap, as you have the cost of the Paint, Reducer, 
>and Hardner.
>
>After talking with a client who is in the powder coating business.
>Here are a couple of variables. Which Greatly depend upon the 
>Material, Casting Process, and Material Thickness.
>
>Aluminum baking temps will range from 320 deg-400 for  30-60 minutes
>Steel   appx 400 deg from 2-3 hours and possibly a rebake for another 2-3 hrs.
>
>
>Again I think you would save time and money by purchasing new.
>Did I forget the Integrity of the Cylinder?  Safty Safty Safty
>
>
>I hope this helps a bit.
>
>Regards
>Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
>At 08:18 AM 8/7/00 -0400, you wrote:
>>We had a group of individuals CA, FL, NY, & NJ joint us for the weekend of
>>diving out of Virginia Beach (Trip reports to follow). One very interesting
>>discovery upon removal of my tank boots was rust.
>>
>>Tanks: are SCUBAPRO steel 95s, white, and about three years old.
>>
>>Care: these tanks are VIP as required, washed off with fresh city water
>>after every dive (even quarry/lake), and stand up in my garage when not in
>>use.
>>
>>Result: The paint under the boots hass bubbled and formed pockets for the
>>salt water to collect. I do not know if the paint and water react under the
>>paint as it does in fiberglass boats or not to form an acid compoound. I
>>hope someone out there, in the knows, has the answer to that. It has cause
>>some extensive surface rust (already had two opinions from technicians on
>>this).
>>
>>Several other sets of tanks have been checked and found to have similar
>>conditions with different ages and manufacting date/group. OMS versions, on
>>a limited check group, appear not to have this problem.
>>
>>If you have SCUBAPRO tanks with boots on, remove and check for rust ASAP.
>>
>>Now what is the best preparation and painting to stop this and preserve the
>>metal?
>>
>>David
>>
>>
>>
>><< Send subscribe/unsubscribe/help requests to
VBTech-request@ci*.co* >>
>>
>

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