Rob, it's real simple - you haven't been totally hosed on the light itself with EE. But then , let's do the math , big time: if everything at DR were 33% more than at EE, what the fuck does that tell your stupid ass? Rob, maybe you can tell me why I should buy a "MLS" light without me laughing in your face? Calkins, Rob wrote: > > Mike, > Just for the record, the Dive-Rite lens is only $24. The Extreme Exposure > lens is $18. Have not compaired them side by side, but not that much of a > price difference. I don't see you upset by the Extreame Exposure mark up. > > Rob > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Mike Bruic [SMTP:mikebruic@di*.co*] > > Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 3:35 AM > > To: Dell Motes; paul.r.harris@te*.ne*; 'Chris Elmore'; cmilz@Mi*.ED* > > Cc: techdiver@aq*.co*; cavers@cavers.com > > Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > > > Yea, that is correct, she charged a dollar more for the precision bore > > glass, now were at $4.00 a tube. "Optically correct"??? What kind of bull > > shit is this, I don't use them to read with you moron, and it sure as hell > > doesn't justify the price reaming your giving your customers on this. > > > > Bruic > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*> > > To: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*>; <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; > > 'Chris > > Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; <cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com> > > Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:18 AM > > Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > > > > > > Sure Mike, the ones you showed us were not precision bore glass, flame > > > polished or optically correct. They didn't meet our specs. > > > You get what you pay for. > > > ta,ta > > > Dell Motes > > > Dive Rite > > > 117 W.Washington St. > > > Lake City, Florida 32055 > > > www.dive-rite.com > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Mike Bruic <mikebruic@di*.co*> > > > To: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*>; paul.r.harris@te*.ne* > > > <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; > > > cmilz@Mi*.ED* <cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > > Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; cavers@cavers.com > > > <cavers@cavers.com> > > > Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 10:16 PM > > > Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > > > > > > > > >Dell, can you please explain to "all" members of this list why a test > > tube > > > >from Dive Right cost around $30.00, when I showed you guys where to get > > > them > > > >custom made for less than $3.00 ea. That's one hell of a mark-up if > > you > > > ask > > > >me. > > > > > > > >Bruic > > > > > > > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > > > >From: Dell Motes <dell@di*.co*> > > > >To: <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*>; 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; > > > ><cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > > >Cc: <techdiver@aq*.co*>; <cavers@cavers.com> > > > >Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:57 PM > > > >Subject: Re: AUL canister light / light cord > > > > > > > > > > > >> Depending on the test tube light design, there are a few ways to > > prevent > > > >> lens loss. > > > >> First, don't lubricate the o-rings, simply wet them (very lightly) > > when > > > >> installing the lens. Lubrication makes them way too easy to pop off > > when > > > >> hot, the pressure pushes them right of the end. The slight moisture > > will > > > >dry > > > >> quickly and never be seen again. > > > >> Relieving the pressure while pressing the lens in place can be done > > in > > a > > > >> couple of ways. If it has an easily loosened compression type sealing > > > >gland > > > >> on the cord, just back off the nut (not the gland itself, use two > > > >wrenches) > > > >> and wiggle the cord. This will allow air to escape out around the > > cord > > > >while > > > >> the lens is being pushed on. Once the lens is in place, re-tighten > > the > > > nut > > > >> on the gland. If the gland is not accessible, (or easily loosened), > > you > > > >can > > > >> "vacuum seal" the lens in place. Place the head on a flat surface and > > > push > > > >> the lens on till it loosely touches the first o-ring. Now turn the > > light > > > >on > > > >> for a few minutes. This will heat the lens and the head at the same > > time. > > > >> Once it is nice and warm, turn the light off and grasp the lens with > > a > > > >towel > > > >> (or something of that nature) and push the lens in place. Once the > > whole > > > >> assembly cools, it will be in a vacuum state. Naturally, the head > > > material > > > >> needs to be such that it can be burned for a short time out of the > > water > > > >for > > > >> this "vacuum" method. > > > >> Aluminum and Delrin will have no problems with this. PVC or others > > would > > > >be > > > >> highly suspect. > > > >> Any high quality glass lens will have no problems either. The o-rings > > can > > > >> stand alot of heat as well. > > > >> > > > >> You should always pull a test tube style out of it's reflector before > > > >using, > > > >> just to check the seals. The lens can be hit in such a way that it > > cracks > > > >> the lens at the base, (where the o-rings are), but still appears to > > be > > > >just > > > >> fine while still in the reflector because this area is hidden from > > view. > > > >> Dell Motes > > > >> Dive Rite > > > >> 117 W.Washington St. > > > >> Lake City, Florida 32055 > > > >> www.dive-rite.com > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> -----Original Message----- > > > >> From: Paul Harris <paul.r.harris@te*.ne*> > > > >> To: 'Chris Elmore' <ElmoreC@gw*.sc*.ed*>; cmilz@Mi*.ED* > > > <cmilz@Mi*.ED*> > > > >> Cc: techdiver@aq*.co* <techdiver@aq*.co*>; > > cavers@cavers.com > > > >> <cavers@cavers.com> > > > >> Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 12:07 PM > > > >> Subject: RE: AUL canister light / light cord > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> >Chris, > > > >> >I'm not sure about this as a solution. > > > >> >Some friends and I were discussing non-wicking wire. > > > >> >My (humble) opinion is that you need some way of transfering > > > >> >air from the light head when you push the test tube on otherwise > > > >> >the positive pressure will push it off. > > > >> > > > > >> >I have noticed that it is much easier to remove or replace the > > > >> >test tube when the lid is off the cannister. > > > >> > > > > >> >r > > > >> >Paul > > > >> > > > > >> >> Claudia, > > > >> >> When I replaced my electrical cord I peeled the > > > >> >> insulation back from both ends (after cutting it to the right > > > >> >> length), put a wad of aquaseal around the wires, then pulled > > > >> >> the insulation back up. This will keep any water from getting > > > >> >> through a nick in the insulation and into the canister which > > > >> >> may be what's happening to yours. > > > >> >> C. > > > >> > > > > >> >-- > > > >> >Send mail for the `techdiver' mailing list to > > `techdiver@aq*.co*'. > > > >> >Send subscribe/unsubscribe requests to > > `techdiver-request@aq*.co*'. > > > >> > > > > >> > > > >> > > > > > > > > > >
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