Just caught the tail end of this thread but I have some suggestions: The secrets to a good solder joint is cleanliness, the proper solder, temperature, and tip configuration and wattage. The terminals should be cleaned of any oxide and grease which may have formed or deposited respectively. The solder should be a general purpose rosin core solder (small diameter - not the large acid core stuff for plumbing). The wire to be soldered should first be fluxed using an electrical grade flux and then tinned, cooled and refluxed (the flux cleans the joint area. The terminal should be fluxed. Most general purpose solders flow well around 700F and that is a sufficient temperature to solder at. Smaller irons are OK if the tip is in good shape, and properly tinned. Higher tin or silver concentrations in the solder will also demand higher temperatures, but these are not recommended. Place the tinned and fluxed wire on the cleaned and fluxed terminal. Lay the tinned solder tip next to the connection (depends on the shape of the tip) and flow solder from the roll (remember small diameter rosin core solder) briefly to the joint. It only should take about a second to make the joint. Allow the joint to cool normally in air (do not cover with a wet cloth), otherwise the joint may be "cold." A good solder joint will have a bright shiny appearance; a cold one will be dull. Cold joints have higher resistance (additional current draw - can be significant), and are not mechanically sound (may fall off because there is insufficinet adhesion in the joint). Mil-Spec soldering procedures do not normally allow reheating a solder joint if it is bad; it requires removal, cleaning and re-soldering. However I think most people gent into trouble here as they try to reheat the terminals and end up damaging the battery with excessive heat. However if you must reheat the joint, apply flux to the joint to help remove the impurities. Just my two cents worth. Take care, Doug
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